Middle East - Anthony Ham [251]
Banias Nature Reserve (Click here) Trek down to the impressive 33m-high Banias waterfall, especially beautiful in spring after the snow-melt runs off from the mountains.
Yehudiya Nature Reserve (below) Take the challenging Upper Yehudiya Canyon Trail, crossing rivers and ice-cold pools along the way. Only for those with a taste for heights and a good strong freestyle.
Nimrod Castle National Park (Click here) Explore the romantic remains of a Crusader castle on this hilltop national park, with commanding, panoramic views of northern Israel from its ruined ramparts.
Tel Dan Nature Reserve (Click here) Not so much a hike as a gentle wander through a small and picturesque forest glade; pause at a natural wading pool to cool off hot feet.
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Gamla & Yehudiya Nature Reserves
South of Katzrin, the wilderness presents some terrific hiking along deep canyons and past gushing waterfalls and freshwater pools. Gamla Nature Reserve preserves both a large natural area and the ruins of Lord of the Rings–like ancient Jewish stronghold, Gamla, overlooking the Sea of Galilee, from which some 5000 Jewish inhabitants leapt to their deaths rather than be conquered by the Romans. Gamla Nature Reserve is especially notable for its colonies of griffon vultures, which can be observed from a purpose built observation post riding the thermals. There are several easy hikes here, as well as a wheelchair-friendly walkway to the vultures.
Between Gamla and Katzrin lies the star of Israel’s northern national parks, the 66-sq-km Yehudiya Nature Reserve, where there’s a pleasant camping ground (per person 14NIS) and some challenging hiking to be done. Trails include the four-hour Upper Zavitan Canyon Trail, which takes you to waterfalls and interesting hexagonal basalt formations, and the more challenging Upper Yehudiya Canyon Trail (see A Hiking We Will Go, above). Pick up a map at the entrance, or consult the park staff for hiking suggestions.
Both parks are difficult to reach without a car, though some people hitch from Katzrin. Egged bus 15 passes the Yehudiya stop twice per day in each direction between Tiberias and Katzrin; bus 843 from Tel Aviv to Katzrin passes once per day (49NIS, three hours, 20 minutes).
Majdal Shams & Mas’ada
The friendly Druze villages of Majdal Shams and Mas’ada, on the slopes of Mt Hermon, identify more strongly with Syria than with Israel, and continue to protest the Israeli occupation of the Golan Heights. They make interesting places to wander, and you’ll find a plethora of good food places selling local Druze takes on Arabic mezze. In Majdal Shams, look out for the Shouting Hill, where Druze Israelis go on Friday mornings to shout news to their relatives on the Syrian side of the border. Later, when you get home, grab a copy of the 2004 movie The Syrian Bride, which deals with the separation of relatives between Israel and Syria.
Around 15km south of Mas’ada, at the Mitzpe Quneitra viewpoint, take a look across the border to the eerie Syrian ghost town of Quneitra, destroyed by Israel during the 1967 Six Day War. Along the road here, sample delicious floppy bread with labneh (soft, sourish white cheese), olive oil and zaatar (hyssop) sold by villagers at roadside stalls.
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WINING & VINING
Israeli wines are quickly coming into their own on the international scene, and a trip to the north (if you’re travelling by car) offers a great opportunity to visit the vineyards, and taste their vintages. Here’s our pick of the crop; call or email in advance to make a tour appointment.
Golan Heights Winery ( 04-696 8409/8435; www.golanwines.co.il; Katzrin Industrial Park; 8.30am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8.30am-1.30pm Fri) Sip on the winery’s famous Yarden wines, and visit the cellars and bottling plant.
Pelter Winery ( 052 866 6385/4; www.pelterwinery.co.il; Ramot) Brothers Nir and Tal Pelter produce wine that’s a firm favourite with Israeli restaurants.
Maor