Middle East - Anthony Ham [252]
Chateau Golan ( 04-660 0026; www.chateaugolan.com; Moshav Eliad)In a moshav about 10km south-east of Ramot, this locally famous place creates an extensive list of tasty merlots, Syrahs (a local version of shiraz) and blended wines.
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Mt Hermon
The uninitiated might never believe there’s a ski resort in sunny Israel, but tucked away in the northeastern corner of the Israeli-controlled portion of the Golan Heights rises 2224m Mt Hermon, the highest peak in Israel, where skiing’s the thing between around late December and the end of March. The Mt Hermon Ski Centre ( bookings 03-606 0640; www.skihermon.co.il; admission 38NIS, chair-lift 35NIS, day ski-pass 200NIS, equipment hire 135NIS; 8am-4pm) makes a pricey way to traverse the white stuff, but it’s the only opportunity you’ll have in the Holy Land to do so.
Banias Nature Reserve & Nimrod Castle
One of the most spectacular spots in the region, the Banias Nature Reserve (Nahal Hermon Reserve; 04-695 0272; admission combined with entry to Nimrod 31NIS; 8am-4pm Sun-Thu, 8am-2pm Fri), takes in the remains of a temple complex built by Agrippa II, as well as the gushing Banias waterfall about 1km away (and accessed by a separate gate – one ticket is good for both sites). Less than 2km east of Banias, you can explore the best-preserved Crusader fortress in Israel, which rises in fairytale style above its hilltop surroundings in Nimrod Castle National Park ( 04-694 9277; admission 18NIS). Bus 55 from Kiryat Shmona passes the Banias reserve twice daily and buses 25, 26 and 36 pass Kibbutz Dan, 6km to the west, from which you can walk, although some choose to hitchhike.
Tel Dan
East of Kiryat Shmona is a cute little, Hundred Acre Wood–like area of natural springs and ancient Canaanite ruins (2700–2400 BC), preserved in the pretty Tel Dan Nature Reserve. The site was first settled in the 19th century BC as the city of Leshem, but was conquered in the 12th century BC by the tribe of Dan and became the northernmost Israelite outpost. Nowadays, it’s home to four easy, wheelchair-accessible marked trails, and a cool natural wading pool.
Close to the park entrance, you’ll find the Beit Ussishkin Museum ( 04-694 1704; admission 18NIS; 9am-4.30pm Sun-Thu, 8am-3pm Fri, 9.30am-4.30pm Sat) which features interesting displays on the Hula Valley.
Another less challenging nature reserve is the nearby Hurshat Tal (‘Forest of Dew’) National Park ( 04-694 2440/2360; admission 33NIS, free if staying at the campsite). Here, a whole host of open-air pools fill with chilly water from the Dan River, enticing swimmers into their shoals. The reserve also boasts a terrific, grassy campsite ( 04-694 2360; per tent 50NIS, bungalow 300NIS) with simple bungalow units, each sleeping four.
Both reserves are very tricky to reach by public transport; if you’re determined, consult Egged for precise times and bus lines.
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TSFAT
04 / pop 28,000
The enticing hilltop town of Tsfat (also spelt Zefat, Tzfat or Safed) enjoys a temperate, high-altitude setting and a rich heritage of Jewish mysticism. It makes a pleasant visit on weekdays, but don’t turn up during Shabbat, when even the birds are grounded.
Orientation & Information
Central Tsfat is spread over a single hilltop, with the bus station on the east side and the old town centre directly opposite on the west side. The hill is scored by the restaurant-studded Yerushalayim (Jerusalem) St, which makes a complete loop between the two.
Sights
Just to the south of the city, the pleasant breeze-cooled park and viewpoint Gan HaMetsuda (Citadel Park) was once the site of a Crusader citadel. Central Tsfat’s atmospheric old quarters slither down from Yerushalayim St, divided by the broad, stiff stairway that makes up Ma’alot Olei HaGardom St, which was built by the British after the 1929 riots, to divide the warring Arab and Jewish factions. The Arabs were then largely confined to what’s now the Artists