Middle East - Anthony Ham [253]
The Synagogue Quarter is today a traditional Jewish neighbourhood, which centres on Kikar HaMaganim (Defenders’ Sq). Two of its 19th-century synagogues are particularly worth a visit: the Ha’Ari Ashkenazi Synagogue and the Cairo Synagogue. Dress modestly; women should avoid bare ankles or shoulders and cardboard yarmulkes are available to male visitors. Photography is permitted except during Shabbat.
To the west, the Artists’ Quarter, with its maze of traditional higgledy-piggledy Arab homes, is worth a wander even if you’re not planning on investing in its output.
Courses
Courses in Torah teachings, the Kabbalah and general Jewish mysticism are available at the well-known Ascent of Safed ( 692 1364; ascentofsafed.com). Classes are open to anyone; for an introduction to the concept, check out the websites www.kabalaonline.org and www.thirtysevenbooks.com.
Sleeping
Ascent of Safed Hostel ( 692 1364; ascentofsafed.com; suggested donation dm/d 60/180NIS) This lovely hostel is particularly aimed at Jews who are studying at Ascent of Safed, and can offer an interesting way to meet local people. It’s a five-minute walk from the centre of Yerushalayim St; beware that the enthusiastic staff will compel you to attend the institute’s seminars.
Safed Guest House ( 692 1086; 1 Lohamei HaGeta’ot St; dm/s/d 89/153/224NIS; ) Sitting at the edge of town, this hostel is about 2km (and a stiff slog) from the town centre. All rates include breakfast. It’s more than a touch institutional, but remains one of the town’s cheapest options. Take bus 6 or 7 from the central bus station.
Bar-El Bed & Breakfast ( 692 3661; bar-el.com; 23 Yod Zayin St; r for up to 2 people US$160, per extra guest US$30) A stay at this lovely suite in the backstreets of the Artists’ Quarter will be a memorable one, with beautiful views from well-decorated quarters sleeping up to five. The highlight, though, is the dee-licious kosher feasts provided by Ronen Bar-El, who’ll whip up one mean vegetarian buffet.
Eating
Tsfat’s main attraction is a range of eating establishments on pedestrianised Yerushalayim St, which are accompanied by some of Israel’s most inspiring views. If you’re in town on Shabbat, pick up supplies well in advance, or you’ll likely go ascetically hungry.
California Felafel ( 692 0678; Yerushalayim St; felafel 15NIS; 8am-11pm Sun-Thu, 8am-3pm Fri) An excellent felafel and shwarma option, just next to the bridge.
Canaan Gallery Café ( 697 4449; 47 Beit Yosef St; mains from 30NIS; 10am-6.30pm Sun-Fri)A soothing sanctuary in the midst of the Artists’ Quarter; stop off here for a sandwich or a salad with a nice cup of coffee, gazing out at the gorgeous views.
Kappucino ( 052 595 5909; 35 Yerushalayim St; mains from 20NIS; breakfast & lunch Sun-Thu) Great coffee, big breakfasts, and free wi-fi at this cheery place on Yerushalayim St.
Getting There & Away
Bus 361 runs to Haifa (34NIS, two hours) every hour until 9pm (till 5.45pm on Friday), to Tel Aviv bus 846 runs twice each morning (51NIS, three hours). There is also a regular service to Tiberias (20NIS, one hour).
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DEAD SEA
Who among us hasn’t seen, at some point in their childhood, that classic image of the Dead Sea bather, toes to the sky, leisurely reading the Sunday Times? There’s more to do here, though, than wallow below sea-level. After that obligatory float, don’t miss the ruins at Masada, while the hiking tracks and springs of Ein Gedi Nature Reserve also merit exploration.
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QUMRAN
02
Described as ‘the most important discovery in the history of the Jewish people’, the Dead Sea Scrolls, now on display at the Israel Museum in Jerusalem, were discovered at the excavated ancient settlement of Qumran in 1947 by a Bedouin boy searching for a stray goat. Today the beautiful, barren site comprises Qumran National Park ( 994 2235; adult/child 18/8NIS; 8am-5pm) and includes the scant remains of the settlement (thought to date from the 2nd century BC to the 1st century