Middle East - Anthony Ham [266]
Bethlehem Star Hotel ( 274 3249; htstar@hall.net; s/d US$35/55) A plain, clean and simple choice, attracting aid workers and journalists who sip coffee while observing the wonderful city views from its breakfast room.
Casa Nova Oriental Palace ( 274 2798; casanovapalace.com; s/d US$45/60; ) This solid value Franciscan-run guesthouse has 25 decent, recently renovated rooms in a stellar location right beside the Church of the Nativity.
Abu Gubran Guest House ( 277 0047; www.annadwa.org; 109 Pope Paul VI St; d US$65; ) Part of the Lutheran-run International Centre of Bethlehem (Dar Annadwa; Click here), Abu Gubran offers 13 lovely rooms, each decorated by a local art student and named after a Palestinian village. Double room prices include breakfast and dinner at the centre’s airy rooftop restaurant.
Jacir Palace Inter-Continental ( 276 6777; www.ichotelsgroup.com; Jerusalem–Hebron Rd; s/d/ste US$80/90/120; ) If you’re looking for swish, this is the place to go. Opulent decorations, serene gardens and comfortable rooms grace this well restored palace; breakfast is included. Be aware, though, that since the hotel is rarely full these days, some facilities such as the gym or pool might not be open.
Eating
Eating out in Bethlehem is all about following your nose: the souq area and around has some mighty tasty street eats on offer, but anywhere you wander is likely to bring you within biting distance of a tasty, hole-in-the-wall restaurant treat. Manger Sq has a number of felafel and shwarma merchants. Look out, too, for the roving drinks vendors, in fez, embroidered outfit and cart topped with fake flowers. They serve sweet soft drinks for around 3NIS per plastic cup, and strong coffee for 4NIS.
Abu Shanab ( 275 0043; Manger St; mains 30-60NIS; closed Mon) Travellers are guaranteed a friendly welcome by the brothers who run this popular place, which serves up great lamb chops and kofta (spiced mincemeat grilled on a skewer) as well as a slew of vegetarian mezze.
Efteem ( 277 0157; Manger Sq; felafel sandwich 5NIS)Just down the ramp from Manger Sq, this is a particular favourite for yummy, filling felafel, shwarma, hummus and the like.
St George Restaurant ( 274 3780; Manger Sq; mains 45-60NIS; 8am-11pm) Especially popular with whistle-stop tour groups, this venerable place on the corner of Manger Sq serves up tasty grilled chicken, fish and meat dishes.
Getting There & Away
Most travellers enter Bethlehem from the ominous, prison-like checkpoint on the Jerusalem–Bethlehem road. Don’t be discouraged by the checkpoint: despite intimidating appearances, it’s easy for travellers to cross. Private/shared taxis (50/5NIS) make the journey from outside Jerusalem’s Old City Damascus Gate, and terminate at the checkpoint. From there, you’ll have to proceed through on foot: be sure to bring your passport, without which you’ll be refused passage (note that if you’re an Israeli passport holder, it’s illegal to enter). Once on the Bethlehem side of the checkpoint, private taxis (50NIS; bargain hard) run the 3km to the town centre, though it’s an interesting walk if you have the time.
You can also cross the checkpoint by car; bring your passport and rental papers. There’s no shortage of on-street parking in Bethlehem and it’s not considered dangerous to drive with Israeli registration plates. Though many car rental companies won’t insure their fleet for trips into the West Bank, Green Peace ( 02-528 2179; greenpeace.co.il), based in Jerusalem, will.
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AROUND BETHLEHEM
There are several sights around Bethlehem well worth striking out for, but most are inaccessible by public transport. Pick those you’d most like to see and negotiate a private taxi for the day to make the most of the area.
Around 1km east of Bethlehem, at Beit Sahour are the Shepherds’ Fields, where the shepherds who visited Jesus in his manger are said to have tended their flocks. It’s a pleasant stroll up here to a little old church, a favourite photo-op destination for local