Middle East - Anthony Ham [267]
About 9km south of Beit Sahour stands Herodion ( 02-776 2251; adult/child 23/12NIS; 8am-5pm Sun-Thu, 8am-4pm Fri), the amazing volcano-shaped remains of the palace complex built by Herod between 24 and 15 BC.
Splendid architecture and a superb location combine to make the Greek Orthodox Monastery of Mar Saba (admission 20NIS; 8am-4pm Sun-Thu), clinging to the steep Kidron banks, one of the Holy Land’s most impressive structures. The interior is open only to men, but there’s a Women’s Tower near the entrance where the fairer sex can survey the scenery. In nearby Beit Jala, don’t miss the Cremesian Salesian Monastery & Winery ( 02-274 4826; Beit Jala), a wine-producing hilltop retreat for Salesian monks. Call in advance to arrange a tasting.
Not far from Bethlehem, on the road towards Hebron, ask your taxi driver to take you to Daher’s Vineyard, an old Palestinian family farm still struggling against potential confiscation by Israel. Part of the youth organisation Tent of Nations ( 02-274 3071; tentofnations.org), visit the beautiful smallholding, and help the cause by buying your own US$25 patch (the price of a square metre) if you feel so inclined.
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HEBRON
02 / pop 160,500
It’s a shame that Hebron has become known as a flashpoint for the Israeli-Palestinian conflict, since despite ongoing troubles, this ancient and vibrant town comprises the West Bank’s major commercial centre, famous for its pottery, grapes and dairy products. As a place of pilgrimage, too, it’s quite a hotspot; here you’ll find the alleged graves of such notables as Adam and Eve, along with Abraham, Isaac, Jacob and their wives too. It’s generally safe to visit, but to ensure your trip is trouble-free, avoid wearing a yarmulke, Star of David or any other suggestion of Judaism.
Hebron’s main bone of contention is the disputed Cave of Machpelah, the traditional burial site of Abraham, and the Ibrahimi Mosque ( 8am-4pm Sun-Thu), which lies above it. For Jews and Christians, it’s a highly revered site; for Muslims, its importance in the region is second only to Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock. Dress modestly, and bring a head covering if you’re female.
There are around 17 Jewish settlements in the Hebron area, housing in total around 12,000 Jews, with a community of hard-core settlers inhabiting Hebron’s souq itself. This has had a troubled effect on the town, with violence occasionally flaring. Most tragically, in February 1994, a Jewish settler stepped into the Ibrahimi Mosque and opened fire on Muslims at prayer. The building is thus now segregated into Muslim and Jewish sections, and security is tight.
Hebron’s now sorrowful souq is a beautiful blend of Crusader and Mamluk facades, vaulted ceilings and narrow alleyways; repeated violence in the area has cleared out its shops and residents, making the place a sad and plaintive ghost town. Most commerce has moved to the adjoining new town, centred on a vibrant outdoor market. Don’t miss the Ein Sara St factories here that produce Hebron’s fabulous blue glass.
Sleeping & Eating
The Hebron Tourist Hotel ( 222 6760; Ein Sarah; s/d US$35/45), about 3km from the market, is one of the only – and fairly scruffy – budget places to stay in town.
A culinary highlight, far more popular than its presidential namesake, is Abu Mazen ( 222 6168; Nimra St; mains 25-35NIS; midday-late), where, for around 30NIS you’ll get a whopping unlimited selection of salads, bread hot from the oven, a hot main, a bottle of water, a strong Arabic coffee, and a dessert. Otherwise, head to King of Felafel ( 222 8726; Al Haras; mid-morning–late) where you can stuff yourself silly for just 2NIS per felafel sandwich.
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FOREIGN OBSERVERS IN HEBRON
As well as the 17 Jewish settlements in the Hebron area, around 600 settlers remain in Hebron city itself, heavily guarded by Israeli troops. International observers are consequently stationed here to monitor ongoing violence and settler activities. If you’re interested in learning about the work of foreign observers in Hebron – or getting