Middle East - Anthony Ham [292]
Top End
The following hotels are located in the Jebel Amman and Shmeisani areas. Note that cheaper prices are sometimes available if you book in advance online.
Le Meridien (Map ; 5696511; www.lemeridien.com; Al-Malekah Noor St; r from JD120; ) While primarily targeting business travellers, the hotel wins guests over with its flawless rooms and world-class service.
Jordan InterContinental Hotel (Map ; 464 1361, 0800 22666; www.intercontinental.com; Al-Kulliyah al-Islamiyah St; r from JD140; ) The grand-daddy of luxury hotels in Amman, the much-revered InterCon has been hosting foreign dignitaries for decades. Today, it still attracts an interesting mix of distinguished guests ranging from top American brass on R&R from Iraq to visiting royalty from the Gulf.
Kempinski Amman (Map ; 5200200; www.kempinski.com; Abdul Hamid Shouman St; r from JD210; ) Earning the title of Amman’s most chic and sophisticated accommodation, this European-styled hotel offers designer rooms and regal bathrooms. Impressive entertainment facilities include a bowling alley, cinema and games centre for children.
EATING
Amman’s budget restaurants are concentrated in Downtown and, to a lesser extent, Jebel Amman. More upmarket restaurants are found in Shmeisani and Abdoun.
Habibah (Map; Al-Malek al-Hussein St, downtown; pastries from 300 fils) This legendary shop is heaven for Middle Eastern sweets and pastries.
Reem Cafeteria (Map ; 4645725; 2nd Circle, Jebel Amman; shwarma JD1) This shwarma stand has the punters queuing down the street at 3am. Even the royal family are rumoured to have dropped in here for a late-night kebab. And if it’s good enough for them…
Hashem Restaurant (Map; Al-Amir Mohammed St; plates JD1-3; 24hr; ) A legendary place that overflows into the alley, Hashem is the place for felafel, hummus and fuul (fava-bean paste). A filling meal with bread and mint tea costs around JD1.
Jerusalem Restaurant (Al-Quds; Map ; 463 0168; Al-Malek al-Hussein St; pastries from 500 fils, mains JD2-4; 7am-10pm) The Jerusalem Restaurant specialises in sweets and pastries but has a large restaurant at the back. Waiters get irritable translating the Arabic menu so if in doubt, opt for the mensaf, a Bedouin dish of lamb with yogurt.
Cairo Restaurant (Map ; 4624527; Al-Malek Talal St; mains JD2-5; 6am-10pm) This has the best budget food downtown. Most of the locals opt for the mutton stews and boiled goats’ heads, but if that doesn’t appeal, the excellent shish tawooq (grilled chicken) is big enough for two.
Abu Ahmad Orient Restaurant (Map ; 464 1879; 3rd Circle, Jebel Amman; meal JD4-6; noon-midnight) This excellent midrange Lebanese place has an outdoor terrace that bustles with life during the summer. The highlights are the hot and cold mezze – try a buraik (meat or cheese pie) or the yalenjeh (stuffed vine leaves).
Books@café (Map ; 4650457; Omar bin al-Khattab, downtown; meals JD4-6; 10am-midnight) For coffeehouse chic and Western food, this mellow restaurant, bar and café is hard to beat. Genuine Italian pizzas and pasta are enjoyed by plenty of hip young Jordanians lounging on sofas in cosy corners.
Blue Fig Café (Map ; 5928800; Prince Hashem bin al-Hussein St; mains JD4-8; 8.30am-1am) Travellers love the global coffeehouse vibe in this super-cool place near Abdoun Circle, which offers an extensive and imaginative mix of world fusion dishes. Throw in some seductive world music and the occasional poetry reading, and you’ve got a winner. And, really, where else could you get a ‘Kyoto green tea and mint flavoured crème brûlée’?
Wild Jordan Café (Map ; 4633542; Othman Bin Affan St, downtown; 11am-midnight; mains JD5-10; ) After checking out the Wild Nature shop (featuring high-quality handmade crafts from Jordan’s various regions), have lunch at this stylish café, where the emphasis is on light and healthy, with smoothies, wraps and vegetarian options