Middle East - Anthony Ham [293]
Vinaigrette (Map ; 5695481; Howard Johnson Al-Qasr Metropole Hotel, 3 Arroub St, Shmeisani; mains JD6-12; ) This stylish restaurant is located on the top floor of the Howard Johnson and, in keeping with the hotel’s boutique theme, offers gourmet sushi and salads accompanied by mellow jazz.
La Terrasse (Map ; 5662831; 11 August St, Shmeisani; meals JD20-25; 1pm-1am) This Shmeisani favourite offers high-end European cuisine in low-key luxury. The wine list is extensive, with labels representing Jordan and the Mediterranean rim (JD20 to JD25 a bottle). Most nights, after 10pm, the tiny stage hosts Arab singers and musicians.
Diwan al-Sultan Ibrahim Restaurant (Map ; 5517383; Ocean Hotel, Shatt al-Arab St, Umm Utheina; meals JD10-15; noon-midnight) The Diwan is highly recommended for high-quality Lebanese food. The fresh fish selection includes delicious batrkh (roe).
Romero Restaurant (Map ; 4644227; www.romero-jordan.com; Mohammed Hussein Haikal St, Jebel Amman; pastas JD4, mains JD6-10) The best Italian restaurant in town: upmarket, formal and imaginative (try the chicken salad with rocca, mushroom, orange and pine nuts in a honey balsamic dressing). Desserts are divine – the crêpes with crème de banana, Grand Marnier and Cointreau are a must. Reservations recommended.
Of the larger supermarkets, around 500m southwest of the Sports City junction you will find a Safeway (Map ; 5685311; Nasser bin Jameel St, Shmeisani; 24hr). A second Safeway (Map ; 5815558; 24hr) is just southwest of 7th Circle in Sweifieh.
More central but smaller, Haboob Grand Stores (Map ; 4622221; Al-Kulliyah al-Islamiyah St; 7am-midnight) is located between 1st and 2nd Circles.
DRINKING
Cafés
Some of the cafés in Downtown are great places to watch the world go by, smoke a nargileh, meet locals and play cards or backgammon. In addition to the Blue Fig Café (Click here), there are plenty of other hip meeting places across town.
Auberge Café (Map ; Al-Amir Mohammed St, downtown; 10am-midnight) One floor below the Cliff Hotel, this is an authentic Jordanian coffeehouse. Grope your way through the tobacco haze to reach the balcony overlooking the main street.
Al-Rashid Court Café (Map ; 4652994; Al-Malek Faisal St; tea or coffee 400 fils, nargileh JD1.250; 10am-midnight Sat-Thu, 1-11pm Fri) Also known as the Eco-Tourism Café. The 1st-floor balcony here is the place to pass an afternoon and survey the chaos of Downtown. The entrance is hidden down a side alley.
Tche Tche Café (Map ; 5932020; www.tchetchecafe.com; Abdoun Circle; 10am-11pm) Far from traditional, this bright, buzzing teahouse is full of Jordanian women smoking the nargileh, sipping fruit smoothies and nodding to Arabic pop. Come early to get a seat.
A dozen or more cafés can be found around Hashemite Sq – a great place for people-watching in summer.
The place to be seen in Amman at night is Abdoun Circle (Map), where there are plenty of popular cafés overflowing with young, wealthy Ammanis.
Bars
Living Room (Map ; 4655988; www.romero-jordan.com; Mohammed Hussein Haikal St; 1pm-1am) Part lounge, part sushi bar, the Living Room is so coolly understated that it’s easy to miss.
Rovers Return (Map ; 5814844; Ali Nasouh al-Taher St, Sweifieh; drinks JD2-4, meals JD3-6; 1pm-late) A popular and cosy English pub with wood panelling and a lively atmosphere. The comfort food includes authentic fish and chips and roast beef with gravy.
Blue Fig Café (Map ; 5928800; www.bluefig.com; Prince Hashem bin al-Hussein St; starters from JD1.650, mains JD4-8; 8.30am-1am) This is a great place to spend an afternoon or evening, with a trendy crowd, draught beer, good cocktails and a pleasant atmosphere. There’s live music most Wednesday and Saturday nights.
ENTERTAINMENT
Nightclubs
Nai (Map ; 5689671; Howard Johnson Al-Qasr Metropole Hotel, 3 Arroub St; 6pm-2am) Currently one of the hottest places in town, Nai is a super-cool