Middle East - Anthony Ham [296]
JERASH & THE NORTH
Northern Jordan is the most densely populated area in the country, and is home to the major urban centre of Irbid as well as dozens of small towns and villages. It has been settled for centuries, as proved by the ancient tells and archaeological remains scattered around the pretty olive-clad hills.
Three cities of the ancient Decapolis (ten Roman city states bordering the Roman Empire) can be found in the region at Jerash (Gerasa), Umm Qais (Gadara) and Pella. Jerash in particular, which is often referred to as the ‘Pompeii of Asia’, is one of the most important and best-preserved Roman cities in the Near East. Much of the north remains off the beaten path, and you may well have the strawberry tree and pine forests of Ajloun and Dibeen to yourself.
The two main sites of Jerash and Ajloun are generally visited as day trips from Amman, whereas Umm Qais is accessible from Irbid. You can visit the area as part of an overland trip north to Syria.
JERASH
02 / pop 160,000
These beautifully preserved Roman ruins ( 6351272; admission JD8; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, to 7pm May-Sep), located 51km north of Amman, are deservedly one of Jordan’s major attractions. Excavations have been going for 85 years but it is estimated that 90% of the city is still unexcavated. In its heyday the ancient city, known in Roman times as Gerasa, had a population of around 15,000.
Allow at least three hours to do Jerash justice. The best times to visit are before 10am or after 4pm, but this is tricky if you are relying on public transport. It’s possible to leave luggage at the Jerash Rest House (Click here) while you visit the site, for no charge.
In July and August, Jerash hosts the Jerash Festival (www.jerashfestival.com.jo), featuring local and overseas artists, music and drama performances inside the ancient city and displays of traditional handicrafts.
History
Although there have been finds to indicate that the site was inhabited in Neolithic times, the city only rose to prominence from the time of Alexander the Great (333 BC).
In the wake of the Roman general Pompey’s conquest of the region in 64 BC, Gerasa became part of the Roman province of Syria and, soon after, a city of the Decapolis. Gerasa reached its peak at the beginning of the 3rd century AD, when it was bestowed with the rank of Colony, after which time it went into a slow decline as trade routes shifted.
By the middle of the 5th century AD, Christianity was the region’s major religion and the construction of churches proceeded at a startling rate. With the Sassanian invasion from Persia in 614, the Muslim conquest in 636 and a devastating earthquake in 747, Jerash’s heyday passed and its population shrank to about a quarter of its former size.
Sights & Activities
At the extreme south of the site is the striking Hadrian’s Arch, also known as the Triumphal Arch, which was built in AD 129 to honour the visit of Emperor Hadrian. Behind the arch is the hippodrome, which hosted chariot races watched by up to 15,000 spectators.
In the summer of 2005, chariot races returned to Jerash for the first time in around 1500 years, thanks to a joint Swedish-Jordanian venture. Dubbed the Roman Army and Chariot Experience (tickets JD15; Sat to Thu, except Tue 11am & 2pm, Fri 10am; www.jerashchariots.com), the project runs chariot races in Jerash’s hippodrome, recreated as authentically as possible, down to the use of Latin commands. Suspend comments about kitsch entertainment until you’ve watched the men in togas: not only is it enormous fun but also the commentary is suitably self-ironic to make sure you laugh with and not at the worthy men in feathers. The project also gives employment to local military veterans.
The visitor centre ( 6351272; admission JD8; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, to 7pm May-Sep) is worth checking out for its reconstructions of many buildings in Jerash (and for its toilets). The South Gate, originally one of four along the