Middle East - Anthony Ham [297]
The Oval Plaza (Forum) is one of the most distinctive images of Jerash, unusual because of its oval shape and huge size (90m long and 80m at its widest point). Some historians attribute this to the desire to gracefully link the main north–south axis (the cardo maximus) with the Temple of Zeus. Fifty-six Ionic columns surround the paved limestone plaza.
On the south side of the Forum, the Temple of Zeus was built in about AD 162 over the remains of an earlier Roman temple; it’s currently being restored. Next door, the South Theatre was built in the 1st century AD and could seat 5000 spectators. From the upper stalls, there are excellent views of ancient and modern Jerash, particularly the Forum, and the acoustics are still wonderful.
To the northeast of the Forum lies the cardo maximus, the city’s main thoroughfare, also known as the colonnaded street, which stretches for 800m from the Forum to the North Gate. The street is still paved with the original stones, and the ruts worn by thousands of chariots can be clearly seen.
Halfway along the colonnaded street is the elegant nymphaeum, the main fountain of the city. The nymphaeum is followed by the imposing Temple of Artemis, reached via a fine propylaeum or monumental gateway, and a staircase. The Temple of Artemis was dedicated to the patron goddess of the city.
Further to the north is the North Theatre, built originally in AD 165 and now wonderfully restored.
The small museum ( 6312267; admission free; 8.30am-6pm Oct-Apr, to 5pm May-Sep) contains a good collection of artefacts from the site.
Sleeping & Eating
The modern town of Jerash comes to life after the sun sets and the air cools, making it well worth staying the night.
Hadrian Gate Hotel ( 77793907; walidfriend.2007@yahoo.com; s/d/tr from JD18/35/45, with breakfast JD2.750) Run by the friendly Walid, the first and only hotel in Jerash proper boasts a spectacular location directly across from Hadrian’s Gate. Private rooms with shared bathrooms are very modest but the owner more than compensates.
Olive Branch Resort ( 6340555; www.olivebranch.com.jo; s/d JD20/40; ) Around 7km from Jerash, off the Ajloun road, this hilltop hotel in attractive grounds has comfortable rooms with satellite TV, balconies with great views and a restaurant. You can camp for JD5 (JD4 with your own tent). A taxi from Jerash costs JD2 one way.
Jerash Rest House ( 6351437; lunch buffet JD5; noon-5pm) Make no mistake – this restaurant near Hadrian’s Gate is a tourist circus. That said, the buffet is great value and you can walk it off in the adjacent ruins.
Lebanese House ( 6351301; mains JD3-5; noon-11pm; ) Overlooking orchards, a 10-minute walk from central Jerash, this is a local favourite, with top-notch Lebanese dishes and attractive terrace seating. Culinary delicacies include buttery cow testicles… or you could just stick to the excellent vegetarian dishes.
You’ll find more local fare opposite the visitor centre.
Getting There & Away
Buses and minibuses run frequently between Amman’s Abdali bus station and Jerash (less than JD1, 1¼ hours), though they can take an hour to fill with enough passengers to warrant departure. From Jerash, minibuses travel regularly to Irbid (500 fils, 45 minutes) and Ajloun (300 fils, 30 minutes) until mid-afternoon. If you’re still in Jerash after about 5pm, be prepared to hitch back to Amman (the tourist police are happy to cajole a passing motorist into taking you) because most buses stop running soon after that. A taxi to Amman costs around JD10 to JD15.
Jerash’s bus station is a 15-minute walk west of the site, at the second set of traffic lights. If you don’t fancy the walk, you can often jump on buses headed to Amman from the junction southeast of the main ticket office.
AJLOUN
02 / pop 125,000
Ajloun (or Ajlun) is another popular and easy day trip from Amman, and can be combined with a trip to Jerash if you leave early. The main attraction is Qala’at ar-Rabad (admission JD1; 8am-4pm Oct-Apr, to 7pm May-Sep), a fine example