Middle East - Anthony Ham [298]
The castle commands fine views of the Jordan Valley and was one in a chain of beacons and pigeon posts that allowed messages to be transmitted from Damascus to Cairo in a single day. Largely destroyed by Mongol invaders in 1260, it was almost immediately rebuilt by the Mamluks. In the 17th century, an Ottoman garrison was stationed here, after which it was used by local villagers. The castle was ‘rediscovered’ by the well-travelled JL Burckhardt, who also stumbled across Petra. Earthquakes in 1837 and 1927 badly damaged the castle, though slow and steady restoration is continuing.
The castle is an uphill walk (2.5km) from the town centre. Occasional minibuses (100 fils) go to the castle but a return trip by taxi from Ajloun (JD5), with 30 minutes to look around, is money well spent.
Sleeping & Eating
Ajloun Hotel ( 6420524; s/d from JD18/30) Located 500m down the road from the castle, this isn’t a bad option assuming you don’t mind claustrophobic rooms and unpredictable hot water. Choose one of the rooms on the top floor, all boasting spectacular views of the countryside.
Qalet al-Jabal Hotel ( 6420202; s/d/tr from JD35/45/50) About 1km before the castle, this is the better of the two hotels. The decor is outdated but the rooms are well equipped and have private balconies. The highlight is the outdoor terrace garden where slow-cooked meals are served – even if you’re not staying here, stop by for supper.
Both Abu-Alezz Restaurant (meals JD2-3) and Al-Raseed (meals JD2-3) near the main roundabout in Ajloun offer cheap and tasty Jordanian fare including chicken, hummus and shwarma. There is also a small drink stand and snack shop next to the castle ticket office. Alternatively, head into the surrounding hills for a picnic.
Getting There & Away
From the centre of Ajloun, minibuses travel regularly to Jerash (less than 1JD, 30 minutes along a scenic road) and Irbid (less than 1JD, 45 minutes). From Amman (1JD, two hours), minibuses leave a few times a day from the Abdali bus station.
AJLOUN FOREST RESERVE
Located in the Ajloun Highlands, this small (13 sq km) but attractive nature reserve ( 02-6475673; open year round) was established by the RSCN in 1988 to protect forests of oak, carob, pistachio and strawberry trees (look for the peeling, bright orange bark) and provide sanctuary for the endangered roe deer.
Several marked trails, some self-guided, weave through the hilly landscape of wooded valleys. Particularly worthwhile is the Soap Maker’s Trail, a self-guided 7km trail (four hours, year round) that combines panoramic viewpoints with visits to a soap workshop. The products of this cooperative can be bought, along with other fair-trade products in the reserve’s craft shop.
The reserve operates tented bungalows (Apr-Oct; s/d/tr/q from JD20/30/40/50). The ablution block contains composting toilets and solar-heated showers. There are also rustic cabins (s/d from JD55) equipped with private bathroom and terrace. Bring mosquito repellent in the summer.
In the tented rooftop restaurant (meals JD4-7; ), there are lunchtime buffets with a good vegetarian selection. Outside, barbecue grills are available for public use.
To reach the reserve, charter a taxi for the 9km from Ajloun (around JD3 one way).
IRBID
02 / pop 935,000
Irbid, Jordan’s second largest city, is a university town and one of the more lively and progressive of Jordan’s large towns. It’s also a good base for exploring the historic site of Umm Qais, Pella and even Jerash. There’s little to see in town apart from the excellent Museum of Archaeology & Anthropology (7271100, ext 4260; admission free; 10am-1.45pm & 3-4.30pm Sun-Thu) in the grounds of Yarmouk University. In the energetic area around the university, the streets are lined with restaurants