Middle East - Anthony Ham [312]
Tell us about the cement factory.
It’s owned by a French company and there are many rules in place to minimise its effect. Water springs include heavy elements released from the factory but good filters have helped reduce the dust clouds.
What role does the community cooperative play in the preservation of this reserve?
We hold workshops and plan how to include the local community by increasing employment – in transportation, for example, or by using local shops for supplies. The whole philosophy of the RSCN is to protect nature by supporting local people. We also have initiatives with local schools to get the children interested in nature.
What does the future hold for your reserve?
Dana is unique because it has four ecosystems – Arabian, Iranian/Asian, Semi-Desert and Desert, ranging from altitudes of 1700m to minus 50m – all of which occur within a very compact distance. As such, we hope Dana will soon achieve official ‘biodiversity reserve’ status, and within five years become the first National park in the Middle East.
What if travellers can’t make it to Dana?
They should go and visit the RSCN’s Wild Jordan Centre in Amman – we’ve taken nature to the city there and it’s really inspiring!
Malik Al-Nanah is the Centre Manager at Dana Nature Reserve.
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The visitor centre ( 2270497; dhana@rscn.org.jo; www.rscn.org.jo; 8am-3pm) in the Dana Guest House complex includes an RSCN craft shop, nature exhibits, craft workshops (closed by 3.30pm) and a food-drying centre for making organic food. This is also the place to obtain further information about the reserve and its hiking trails and to arrange a guide. Most trails require a guide, costing JD15 for up to two hours, JD25 for three to four hours and JD35 for five to six hours. Costs are for a group with a maximum of 18 people.
Hiking routes include the Steppe Trail (2½ hours, 8km) to Rummana camp ground, the Waterfalls Trail (2½ hours, 2.5km) and the short but steep Mysterious Nabataean Tomb Tour (two hours, 2.5km). The last two hikes require a shuttle to the trailhead (JD6). The main unguided option is the Wadi Dana Trail (14km) to Feinan Lodge, which switchbacks steeply down into the gorge (coming back is a real killer!).
Sleeping & Eating
Dana Hotel ( 2270537; www.danavillage.piczo.com; s/d JD12/20) This hotel, ethically run by the Sons of Dana Cooperative, is the oldest in the village, with simple but spotless rooms and helpful management. Meals (JD4) can be arranged.
Dana Tower Hotel ( 2270226, 079 5688853; dana_tower2@hotmail.com; s/d/t without bathroom JD5/10/12) This quirky assembly of rooms has a majlis (reception area) festooned with hanging memorabilia. With names like ‘Flying Carpet’ and ‘Sunset Royal’, the small, unheated rooms decorated with travellers’ graffiti are grungy, but popular with younger backpackers. There is free tea and a washing machine.
Dana Guest House ( 2270497; dhana@rscn.org.jo; d JD60, s/d/tr JD35/45/55 without bathroom; ) With panoramic views across the reserve and a great roaring fire in winter, a welcome from enthusiastic park rangers and a collection of like-minded fellow travellers, this is one ecolodge that lives up to its hearty reputation. It is run by the RSCN and reservations are necessary in the high season. The balconies have breathtaking views. Book dinner (JD9) in advance.
Feinan Lodge (s/d/tr JD40/50/65; Wadi Feinan; 1 Sep-30 Jun; ) This unique ecolodge is only accessible on foot from Dana (six hours) or by 4WD via the Dead Sea Hwy (JD46, 2½ hours from Dana by taxi). At night, the monastic-style lodge is lit solely by hundreds of candles. Bring a torch and mosquito repellent. It’s guaranteed to be a night to remember, not least for the exceptional, home-cooked vegetarian spread.
Rummana Campground (s/d/tr tent incl park entry fee JD20/35/50; 1 Mar-31 Oct; ) The price may seem steep given the minimal facilities, but when you wake up to the sound of Dana’s