Middle East - Anthony Ham [313]
If all the accommodation at Dana village is full, consider staying at Al-Nawatef Camp ( 2270413/77 7240378; nawatefcamp@hotmail.com; half board JD15). Perched on the edge of a neighbouring wadi to Dana, this small camp has a fabulous location and is run by an enterprising local man who knows the area because, he says, ‘It runs in my blood.’ The camp comprises goat-hair chalets with comfortable beds (and balconies) and a shared shower block. Many hiking options are possible.
Getting There & Away
Minibuses run every hour or so throughout the day between Tafila and Qadsiyya (JD1, 30 minutes). The turn-off to Dana village is 1km north of Qadsiyya – ask to be dropped off at the crossroads. From here it’s a 2.8km steep downhill walk to Dana village. A single bus departs from Qadsiyya daily between 6am and 7am for Amman’s Wahadat station (JD3, three hours), returning from Amman at around 11am.
A taxi from Tafila costs JD8 or the Dana Tower Hotel picks up travellers for free from Qadsiyya if you ring in advance and stay at the hotel. A taxi to Petra or Karak costs around JD30.
SHOBAK
Perched in a wild, remote landscape, Shobak Castle (admission free; daylight hr) wins over even the most castle-weary, despite being less complete than its sister fortification at Karak. Formerly called Mons Realis (Mont Real, or Montreal – the Royal Mountain), it was built by the Crusader king Baldwin I in AD 1115. It withstood numerous attacks from the armies of Saladin before succumbing in 1189, a year after Karak, after an 18-month siege. Rising above the surrounding plateau, it is an impressive sight from a distance.
Excavation on the castle’s interior is ongoing and has revealed a market, two Crusader churches and, at the northern end of the castle, a semicircular keep whose exterior is adorned with Quranic inscriptions, possibly dating from the time of Saladin. The court of Baldwin I is also worth a look. The real highlight is the underground escape tunnel that winds down seemingly forever into the bowels of the earth, finally resurfacing way outside the castle at the base of the hill. Bring a torch and nerves of steel.
Most people visit Shobak en route to or from Petra but if you fancy staying over, try Jaya Tourist Camp ( 2164082/79, 5958958; jaya_camp@yahoo.com; JD15), which has 15 tents in a tranquil spot on high ground opposite Shobak Castle. To reach the camp, follow the signs for Shobak Castle Campground ( 2164265; currently closed), signposted from the King’s Highway, and after 300m turn left and immediate right for 1km.
Occasional minibuses link Shobak village with Amman’s Wahadat station (JD2, 2½ hours), and there are irregular minibuses to Karak from Aqaba via the Shobak turn off (ask the driver before setting out). Either way you’ll still need a taxi for the last 3km or so to the fort.
PETRA & THE SOUTH
Travel along the King’s Highway and you’ll notice that somewhere after Dana the character of the countryside changes. As the fertile hilltop pastures of the north give way to the more arid landscapes of the south, you suddenly find you’re in epic country – the country that formed the backdrop for Lawrence of Arabia and Indiana Jones and the Last Crusade. To make the most of this exciting part of Jordan, with its unmissable world wonders at Petra and Wadi Rum, you need to spend a day or two more than the map might suggest. Find some time to hike and stay with the Bedouin, and the experience is sure to become a highlight of your entire Middle Eastern trip. Before catching the ferry to Egypt or crossing into Israel and the Palestinian