Middle East - Anthony Ham [321]
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MODERN CARETAKERS OF THE DESERT JENNY WALKER
Pulling up outside an enclosure on the edge of Diseh, Mr Zawaedh proudly inspected the newest member of the community. The small bundle of pale fur and oversized legs belonged to a two-day-old camel, shivering in the winter winds. ‘I call him Ibn Jinny, son of Jenny,’ he said. I took this as a compliment and mused that this man belonged to roughly the same tribe of people whom Lawrence had called ‘uncompromising, hard-headed’ and ‘unsentimental’. As I settled down to a glass of tea in time-honoured fashion, the more familiar Bedouin epithets of ‘kind and hospitable’ sprang to mind.
The Bedouin are universally proud of their claim to the area and welcoming to guests who visit it. Not surprising, then, that many of the 5000 Bedouin currently living in the area now make a living from tourism. ‘This is the Bedouin life,’ enthused one camp owner. ‘This is our art, our craft, to reveal the wonders of Wadi Rum.’ For centuries the Bedouin have been doing the same, offering bread and salt to those in need, knowing they can expect the same in return. The currency today is usually money, but the principle of easing the passage of strangers through traditional tribal territories remains unchanged.
Of course, the changes have required sacrifices. As we sat on the edge of the great arena of sand in the heart of Wadi Rum, our host cast a wistful eye over the landscape: ‘Life before was simple and free,’ he said, fidgeting with a mobile phone and a possible booking for the family camp. ‘We managed goats and sheep and looked for water. Now there’s education and working with tourists, even tribal conferences in New York – there’s more money, but it’s hard.’ For most people, ‘hard’ means a goat-hair bed and scorpions, insufferable heat and freezing nights, not enough to eat and being forever thirsty. But for the few who are still brought up that way, this is the life where the ‘herdsmen sing’.
We watched a camel drift across the horizon. ‘Where is he going?’ I asked. ‘Probably south to Saudi Arabia.’ ‘How will you get him back?’ ‘He comes back when he’s ready – in one month, or in six. We’ll find him or he’ll find us.’ A wheatear hopped onto the rock and called out for prayers and our host dutifully disappeared to perform ablutions. Clearly and thankfully, it’s going to take more than a computer and a tribal conference in New York to take the nomad out of the Bedouin: like the camel that returns when ready, the Bedouin know where home is.
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With a guide you can make the excellent rock scramble through Rakhabat Canyon, crossing through Jebel Umm al-Ishrin.
A camel ride offers one of the best ways to understand the rhythms of the desert. A one-hour trip to the Alameleh rock inscriptions, for example, costs JD7. Full-day camel hire costs JD20 per day – see the rates posted at the visitor centre.
For ideas on more adventurous trips, see www.bedouinroads.com.
Sleeping
There are no hotels in Wadi Rum, but camping can range from a goat-hair blanket under the stars at an isolated Bedouin camp to a mattress under partitioned canvas in a ‘party tent’ in the neighbouring district of Diseh. Mattress, blankets and food are provided but bring your own linen.
Rest House ( 2018867; bedding in 2-person tent per person JD3) The frayed tents here offer the most accessible accommodation, recommended if you arrive in Wadi Rum too late to head into the desert. Pitch your own tent for JD1 (includes use of toilets and showers).
Mohammed Mutlak Camp ( 077 7424837; www.wadirum.org) This camp is in a beautiful spot overlooking Jebel Qattar. Half board