Middle East - Anthony Ham [322]
Sunset Camp ( 2032961, 079 5502421; www.mohammedwadirum.8m.com) This desert camp, around 12km from Rum village, has been recommended by many travellers. Prices, which include half-/full-day jeep excursions, accommodation and meals, are dependent on the size of your group. Call ahead for a quote.
Bait Ali ( 2022626, 079 5548133; www.desertexplorer.net; half board in tent/chalet JD25/27; ) Tucked behind a hill, with a sublime view of the desert, this upmarket, ecofriendly camp is signposted 15km from the Desert Highway and 9km from the Wadi Rum visitor centre. The accommodation (either in army tents or twin-bed cabins) is basic but spotless as are the hot-water shower blocks. The facilities include an excellent restaurant with extensive nightly barbecue and a bar.
The following three desert camps are near the village of Diseh – clearly signposted off the Wadi Rum approach road, 16km from the Desert Highway. Hitch a ride near the police checkpoint to the village (8km – be prepared for a wait), or request someone from the camp to meet you.
Zawaideh Desert Camp ( 079 5840664; zawaideh_camp@yahoo.com; half board per person JD14) This is a simple but atmospheric camp in the undercliff of the escarpment, on the edge of a wide plain.
Barrh Camp ( 079 5413563; hzawaydeh@yahoo.com; half board per person JD25) This small camp is run by Hilal Zawaedh, the president of the Diseh Village Touristic Cooperative (contact Mr Hilal with queries regarding any camps in Diseh). Tucked discreetly at the end of Siq Umm Tawaqi, beside a giant vertical slice of rock, the camp is within walking distance of some fine rock inscriptions.
Captain’s Camp ( 2016905, 079 5510432; captains@jo.com.jo; half board per person JD30) A well-run midrange camp with hot showers, a clean bathroom block and good buffets; popular with large tour groups. Contact Rafiq Suleiman.
Eating
Rest House ( /fax 2018867; breakfast/lunch/dinner buffet JD3/8/10; 6am-midnight) Dining here is open air and buffet style. Sipping a large Amstel beer (JD2.500) while watching the sun’s rays light up Jebel Umm al-Ishrin is the perfect way to finish off the day.
Rum Gate Restaurant ( 2015995; Wadi Rum visitor centre; buffet lunch JD10; 8am-5pm; ) Tasty dishes are offered in the buffet between noon and 4pm (popular with tour groups). Outside this time, the restaurant is buzzing with guides, weary hikers and independent travellers who congregate over a nonalcoholic beer (JD2) and a chicken sandwich (JD4.500). Profits contribute towards upkeep of the protected area.
Getting There & Away
At the time of research, there was at least one minibus a day to Aqaba (JD1.500, one hour) at around 7.30am; a second one may run at 8.30am. To Wadi Musa (JD5, 1½ hours), there is a fairly reliable daily minibus at 8.30am. Check current departure times at the visitor centre or Rest House when you arrive in Wadi Rum.
For Ma’an, Karak or Amman, the minibuses to either Aqaba or Wadi Musa can drop you off at the Ar-Rashidiyya crossroads with the Desert Highway (JD1.500, 20 minutes), where it is easy to hail onward transport.
Occasionally, taxis wait at the visitor centre (and sometimes the Rest House) for for a fare back to where they came from – normally Aqaba, Wadi Musa or Ma’an. It costs about JD25 to Aqaba and JD40 to Wadi Musa (Petra). A taxi from Rum village to the Ar-Rashidiyya crossroads with the Desert Highway costs around JD5.
AQABA
03 / pop 105,000
Aqaba is the most important city in southern Jordan and, with feverish development underway, is being groomed as the country’s second city, if not in size at least in terms of status, revenue and tourism potential. Perched on the edge of the Gulf of Aqaba, ringed by high desert mountains and enjoying a pleasant climate for most of the year, Aqaba has what it takes