Middle East - Anthony Ham [337]
ACCOMMODATION
ACTIVITIES
BOOKS
BUSINESS HOURS
COURSES
DANGERS & ANNOYANCES
EMBASSIES & CONSULATES
FESTIVALS & EVENTS
GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS
HOLIDAYS
MONEY
PHOTOGRAPHY
TELEPHONE
VISAS
WOMEN TRAVELLERS
TRANSPORT IN LEBANON
GETTING THERE & AWAY
GETTING AROUND
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Beautiful, bountiful, beleaguered Lebanon is a tiny, chaotic and culturally colliding country like no other on earth. Blessed with serene mountain vistas and the majestic remains of ancient civilisations, it’s also scarred both emotionally and physically by decades of civil war, invasions and terrorist attacks.
To the traveller, Lebanon comes across as a place of contradictions: home to a bubbling-hot nightlife in Beirut, a notorious Hezbollah (Party of God) headquarters in otherwise backwater Baalbek, a fistful of ski resorts in its loftier climes, and a dozen cramped and poverty-stricken Palestinian refugee camps. Combine all this with 18 ‘official’ religions, three widely spoken languages, and an identity with one slipper in the East and one Jimmy Choo planted firmly in the West, and you can’t help but believe that Lebanon’s got it all – both good and bad.
Though welcoming, endearing and easy to get around, it’s important to remember that Lebanon’s also a troubled place that frequently sees violence and warfare. In recent times, there have been a slew of politically motivated assassinations and a 2006 war between the militant Hezbollah group and Israel, which saw countrywide destruction. Open fighting, moreover, broke out on Beirut’s streets in May 2008, leading to civilian casualties and fears for the country’s stability. Though things soon calmed down once more, it remains to be seen how long this peace and quiet will last.
Nevertheless, if you keep well abreast of the news, Lebanon remains a safe and undeniably fascinating destination for travellers. Hike the enchanting byways of the Qadisha Valley in the north of the country and you’ll find it hard to imagine that a conflict has ever existed here; wander past the pockmarked shell of the Holiday Inn in Beirut and you’ll wonder if there will ever be lasting peace. And this is Lebanon in a nutshell: a confusing, compelling conundrum in compact country form.
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FAST FACTS
Area 10,400 sq km
Capital Beirut
Country code 961
Language Arabic
Money Lebanese lira (also known as the Lebanese pound; LL); US$1 = LL1508;
€1 = LL2232
Official name Republic of Lebanon
Population 4 million
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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO
When’s best to visit Lebanon depends on what you’re planning on doing. Spring (March to May) is best for hiking, since the fields and slopes are green, lush and sprinkled with flowers. By May, the weather’s often warm enough for a dip in the Mediterranean – and you could even try taking to the ski slopes in the morning and swimming on the coast in the afternoon, as the Lebanese are at great pains to point out.
Summer (June to September) is the time for sun seekers, when Beirut’s beach clubs are hot, in more ways than one. It can, however, get very sticky on the coast, particularly in the polluted hearts of Beirut and Tripoli. Summer is also the season for festivals, many of which are held outdoors in spectacular locations, but be aware that during peaceful years, summer accommodation prices rise steeply as flocks of Lebanese expats descend.
Autumn (October to November) is another prime period for hiking, but be aware that outside Beirut things can be extremely quiet: summer tourist spots shut up shop while ski resorts are still oiling their ski lifts. Ramadan (usually September to October) shouldn’t affect your travel plans too much in Lebanon, since most towns are a mixture of Christians and Muslims.
Winter is optimum if you’re keen to hit the ski slopes, when resorts like the Cedars (Click here) open for business; the ski season usually cranks up in early December and can last until early May. Make sure, countrywide, that your hotel room has some sort of heating and hot water, though, or you may have to wear your socks