Middle East - Anthony Ham [338]
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HISTORY
Prior to its independence, Lebanon formed a part of Greater Syria. Click here for information on the country pre-independence.
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LEBANON IN…
One Week
Assuming all’s quiet on Lebanon’s eastern front and the Beirut–Damascus land border is open, take a bus from Damascus to Beirut (Click here) for two days of indulging in the capital’s cultural and hedonistic pursuits. From here, head north to pretty Byblos (Click here), where ancient ruins are sprinkled beside an azure sea. If you’ve got your own transport, continue up to the Qadisha Valley (Click here) on day four, for a long, soothing trek along the valley floor, past rock-cut monasteries and gushing waterfalls. If not, take the bus up to Tripoli (Click here) to explore medieval souqs, munch on its famous sweets, and experience the ragged hustle and bustle of a working port city. From here, travel back down, via Beirut, to Baalbek (Click here) to soak up the grandeur of the fabled ‘Sun City’ for days five and six, with a night in between at the historic Palmyra Hotel (Click here). On day seven, stop in to admire Aanjar (Click here), one of the world’s few Umayyad city ruins, on your way back towards the Beirut–Damascus border.
Two Weeks
In addition to all the above, a fortnight will give you time to explore southern Lebanon and delve deeper into the country’s great outdoors. If you’re here in winter, don’t miss two days skiing at the Cedars (Click here), with an afternoon’s wander around lovely, peaceful Bcharré (Click here). If it’s summer, take an extra day’s walking in the Qadisha Valley (Click here) and a second day to hike the stunningly barren mountains above the Cedars. Two more days can be happily spent exploring Sidon (Click here) and Tyre (Click here), two southern cities with tumultuous pasts and a wealth of ancient remains, then head over to Deir al-Qamar (Click here) to soak up the small-town atmosphere and the wonders of Beiteddine Palace (Click here) – not missing its incredible mosaic collection. Backtracking to Beirut, spend your final day or two relaxing beside the pool at one of its chi-chi beach clubs before boarding the bus back to Damascus.
Join the Itineraries
Syria (Click here)
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The Early Years of Independence
Lebanon was officially declared independent in 1943, when, on 22 November, France –
which had held its mandate since the end of WWI – gave in to the country’s demands for independent rule. In 1946, the last French troops withdrew, and a jubilant Lebanon was left to fend for itself.
Prior to full independence, the government (also known as the National Assembly) had already been uniquely divided along religious lines: Christians and Muslims held parliamentary seats at a ratio of 6:5, broadly representing the religious make-up of the country established by a 1932 census. The president, the constitution stated, must be a Maronite Christian and the prime minister a Sunni Muslim. The speaker was to be a Shiite Muslim and the chief of staff a Druze. Though likely with lofty aims, dividing the country along sectarian lines from the very start was to be a major source of strife for years to come.
The early years of independence for the fledgling government weren’t easy. First came economic strife and next, on 14 May 1948, the declaration of Israeli independence in former Palestine. Immediately, Lebanese soldiers joined pan-Arab armies and Palestinian fighters in the struggle against Israel. During 1948 and 1949, while war raged, Palestinian refugees flooded north into Lebanon; Amnesty International claims that the tiny nation absorbed more Palestinians than any other country, over 100,000 by the end of 1949 alone. Though initially welcomed into Lebanon, the Maronite majority soon became uneasy about the refugees, mostly Sunni Muslims, who threatened to tilt their precarious balance of power. In 1949, Lebanon accepted an armistice with Israel, but though 1948’s UN Resolution 194