Middle East - Anthony Ham [387]
Cola transport hub (Map) This is in fact a confused bustling intersection (often known as Mazraa), generally serving the south, and the Bekaa Valley.
Dawra transport hub Northeast of Beirut, and covering the same destinations as Charles Helou bus station, it’s usually a port of call on the way in and out of the city.
Charles Helou is the only formal station and is divided into three signposted zones:
Zone A For buses to Syria.
Zone B For buses servicing Beirut (where the route starts or finishes at Charles Helou bus station).
Zone C For express buses to Jounieh, Byblos and Tripoli.
Zones A and C have ticket offices where you can buy tickets for your journey. In the other stations (Cola and Dawra transport hubs) ask any driver for your bus (if someone doesn’t find you first). Buses usually have the destination displayed in the front window, but largely in Arabic only.
There is a growing number of independently owned microbuses that cover the same routes. The advantages are that they’re comfortable, frequent and often quicker than regular buses. The disadvantages are that they’re more expensive and, since they’re privately owned, you’re taking a chance on the driver’s motoring skills. You pay for your ticket on board, either at the start or end of the journey.
See individual town and city listings for detailed information on bus services.
Car
You need to be a competent driver with very steady nerves to contemplate driving in Lebanon, since there are few rules of the road, and a three-lane road, for example, can frequently become seven lanes. Hairpin bends and pot-holed roads are frequent in the mountains, and few roads are gritted after a snow fall. Beirut’s traffic is often heavy, and road signs (where there are any at all) can be cryptic or misleading.
Having said all that, renting a car is a fantastic way to get to some of the most out-of-the-way parts of the country, especially if time is tight. With a car, you’ve got the freedom to explore the small villages peppering the Qadisha Valley, and make your own unexpected discoveries en route. Aside from being generally cautious, remember to stop at military checkpoints, and have your passport and car rental papers ready for inspection.
As well as the usual gamut of international operators (Avis, Budget, Thrifty and Sixt all have offices in Beirut), local outfit Advanced Car Rental comes highly recommended. Click here for details.
Local Transport
BUS
Some towns, including Beirut, have both government and privately owned buses that operate a hail-and-ride system. Fares are generally LL750 for all except the most distant destinations; see individual town or city information for details.
TAXI & SERVICE TAXI
Most routes around Lebanese towns and cities are covered by service, or shared, taxis (Click here), which are usually elderly Mercedes with red licence plates and a taxi sign on the roof. You can hail them at any point on their route and also get out wherever you wish by saying ‘anzil huun’ (drop me off here). Be sure to ask ‘servees?’ before getting in (if it’s an empty car), to ensure the driver doesn’t try to charge you a private taxi fare. Going rates are generally LL1000 to LL1500 for trips within a town, and LL2000 to LL8000 for trips to outlying areas.
If you want to engage a private taxi, make sure the driver understands exactly where you want to go and negotiate the fare clearly before you get in (fares are suggested in relevant sections). Bear in mind that it might actually be cheaper, especially if you’re planning on taking several day trips, to rent a car.
Tours
Several Lebanese operators organise reliable tours within Lebanon, and to Syria and Jordan from Lebanon. They cover most of Lebanon’s highlights, are reasonably priced and usually include lunch, guide (in English or French), entrance fees and pick-up/drop-off at your hotel, and are comfortable (transport is in air-con coaches or minibuses). A day trip costs from US$22 per person for half-day trips and around US$50 to US$60 for full-day