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Middle East - Anthony Ham [388]

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trips. For trekking tour operators, see boxed text Click here.

Tour operators:

Adonis Travel ( 09-949 599; www.adonistravel.com/lebanon) Offers trips within Lebanon and multi-country itineraries.

Kurban Tours (Map; 01-371 013; www.kurbantravel.com; InterContinental Phoenicia Hotel, Minet al-Hosn, Beirut; 24hr)

Tania Travel (Map; 01-739 682; www.taniatravel.com; Rue Sidani, Hamra, Beirut; 8am-6pm Mon-Sat)


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Syria


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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

HISTORY

THE CULTURE

RELIGION

ARTS

ENVIRONMENT

DAMASCUS

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

ENTERTAINMENT

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

AROUND DAMASCUS

BOSRA

SEIDNAYYA

MAALULA

HOMS

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

SLEEPING & EATING

HAMA

GETTING THERE & AWAY

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

TOURS

SLEEPING

EATING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

CRAC DES CHEVALIERS

HISTORY

SIGHTS

SLEEPING & EATING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

APAMEA

HISTORY

ORIENTATION

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

ACTIVITIES

TOURS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

SHOPPING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

ALEPPO

QALA’AT SAMAAN

DEAD CITIES

LATTAKIA

INFORMATION

SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

AROUND LATTAKIA

UGARIT

QALA’AT SALADIN

PALMYRA

HISTORY

INFORMATION

SIGHTS

TOURS

SLEEPING

EATING

DRINKING

GETTING THERE & AWAY

THE EUPHRATES

DEIR EZ-ZUR

SOUTHEAST OF DEIR EZ-ZUR

NORTHWEST OF DEIR EZ-ZUR

SYRIA DIRECTORY

ACCOMMODATION

BUSINESS HOURS

CHILDREN

COURSES

DISCOUNT CARDS

EMBASSIES & CONSULATES

FESTIVALS & EVENTS

GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS

HOLIDAYS

MONEY

POST

TELEPHONE

VISAS

WOMEN TRAVELLERS

TRANSPORT IN SYRIA

GETTING THERE & AWAY

GETTING AROUND

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Syria could just be the friendliest, most hospitable rogue state on earth. There are many things you’ll remember from your visit here, but the chances are it’s the warmth and graciousness of the people that will live longest in the memory. In a wonderful antidote to what the US State Department would have you believe, it’s the Syrians themselves who ensure most visitors develop a lifelong infatuation with the country’s gentle charms.

So much of Syria bears the stamp of the grand epics of Middle Eastern history. The Old City of Damascus has watched it all, accumulating in the process an astonishing richness of architecture both sacred and profane, from the extraordinary Umayyad Mosque to jewel-like Damascene houses and souqs that you’ll never want to leave. Aleppo, which vies with Damascus for the honour of the world’s oldest city, is home to the finest medieval souq in the region. Then there’s Palmyra, a glorious, alluring desert ruin that transports you back into the decadent Roman past. The World Heritage–listed castles of Crac des Chevaliers and Qala’at Saladin will also fulfil every childhood longing. And these are just the marquee attractions…

Best of all is the fact that these places are invariably woven into the fabric of daily life – the locals worship in the mosques, shop in the souqs, drink tea in the houses and picnic in the ruins. And they’re happy for travellers to join them. And join them you must if Syrian food is on the menu, as the national cuisine is simply superb.

For all its wealth of historical associations, this is not a country stuck in the past. Since Bashar al-Assad took over the reins from his father in 2001, modernisation has been in the air. This is no Levantine backwater – Syria is a modern, efficient and very proud nation. It needs and deserves travellers to bear witness to this fact.

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FAST FACTS

Area 185,180 sq km

Capital Damascus

Country code 963

Language Arabic

Money Syrian pound (also known as the lira; S£); US$1 = S£51.85; €1 = S£80.15

Official name Syrian Arab Republic

Population 20.5 million

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CLIMATE & WHEN TO GO

Syria has a Mediterranean climate with hot, dry summers (June to August) and mild, wet winters (December to February), especially close to the coast. Inland it gets progressively drier and

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