Middle East - Anthony Ham [421]
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SLEEPING
Aleppo has terrific accommodation across a range of budgets. All are well located, with the bulk of the budget hotels in the new part of town. The midrange and top-end places are clustered around the lovely Al-Jdeida district, with two midrange choices in the Old City near Bab Antakya. Reservations are recommended for much of the year.
Budget
Hotel Nejm Illahdar (Hotel Green Star; Map; 223 9157; s/d from S£500/800; ) On the 2nd floor of a building just off Bab al-Faraj, this place has been renovated in the not-too-distant past. Cheaper rooms come with fan, balcony and shower cubicle; the more expensive have air-con, comfortable beds and full (if tiny) bathrooms. When we visited, the cheaper rooms were a bit grubby. There’s a lounge with satellite TV, as well as a fabulous rooftop terrace where breakfast (S£100) is served in summer.
Hotel al-Gawaher (Map; /fax 223 9554; gawaherh@aloola.sy; Bab al-Faraj; s/d/tr S£500/1000/1500) With Syrian hotel prices going through the roof in recent years, it’s nice to see this backpacker mainstay hold firm. The simple rooms come complete with clean linen, private bathroom, toilet paper and soap, fans and electric heaters. Some have balconies onto the street, others have windows onto the interior salons, and some even have satellite TV. The 2nd-floor lounge is a pleasant place to hang out. Rooms on the top floor require a stiff climb.
Tourist Hotel (Map; 211 6583; Sharia ad-Dala; d S£1000, s/d without bathroom S£500/1000; ) Run by the formidable Madam Olga and her family, this small hotel is one of our budget favourites in Aleppo. It’s famous throughout the country for its standards of cleanliness (it’s immaculate), and rooms are well sized, light and comfortable. Some even have balconies and there’s 24-hour hot water, fresh linen daily and an optional breakfast (S£150).
Hanadi Hotel (Map; 223 8113; Sharia ad-Dala; s/d S£575/1150, without bathroom S£400/700; ) This could just be the best place for budget travellers in town, with friendly, multilingual staff, an enormous sun terrace high above the Aleppo clamour and spotless freshly painted rooms (what’s with so much pink?). Some travellers may not like the squat toilets and the entrance staircase could be Aleppo’s steepest, but these are small drawbacks in a place with so much going for it. It also organises tours to surrounding sights (per person €15 to €25).
Hotel Somar (Map; 211 3198; fax 211 4669; Sharia Yarmouk; s US$14-18, d US$16-25; ) If you have no luck scoring a room at the Tourist Hotel, the old-fashioned Somar is a decent alternative. Rooms are comfortable and have satellite TV, and all come with tiny but very clean private bathrooms. Rooms at the front are the best, as those at the rear are dark, and there’s a small but pleasant covered courtyard. The clientele is predominantly Arab.
Al-Yarmouk Hotel (Map; 211 6154; fax 211 6156; Sharia al-Maari; s/d/tr S£700/1100/1500; ) The Yarmouk may not see too many Western tourists – it mainly hosts Arab and Russian traders – but the chain-smoking English- and Russian-speaking staff are welcoming and it’s a decent fallback if the other budget places are full. Having benefited from a makeover, each of the hotel’s three floors has been painted a different colour, so take your pick from glossy lavender, pink and lemon. Rooms with bathrooms come with fridges, TVs, clean sheets and towels.
Midrange & Top End
Aleppo’s midrange and top-end accommodation is outstanding and largely occupies restored courtyard houses in Al-Jdeida and just off the lanes of the souq in the old city. Unless indicated otherwise, all of these hotels provide comfortable rooms with heating and satellite TV. All except the Baron accept credit-card payment.
Dar Halabia (Map; 332 3344; www.halabia-travel.com; s/d €29/39; ) The Halabia bills itself as a ‘Hotel de Charme’ and it’s entitled to do so. Located near Bab Antakya,