Middle East - Anthony Ham [422]
It occupies three old houses and has 19 rooms, the most attractive of which are on the ground floor around the courtyard of the main building, although all rooms are comfortable. The area’s quite lonely at night when the whole quarter is deathly silent, but the hotel is lovely, spotlessly clean and great value. There are no TVs, but there’s free wireless.
Dar al-Kanadil (Map; 332 4908; fax 363 3715; www.halabia-travel.com; s/d/tr €39/49/69; ) Opened in mid-2008 and run by the same owners as Dar Halabia, this fine old house has tastefully decorated, large rooms arrayed around two open courtyards. The bathrooms here are lovely, and one of the upstairs terraces has partial views over the old city rooftops to the citadel.
Baron Hotel (Map; 211 0880/1; www.the-baron-hotel.com; Sharia al-Baron; s/d/ste US$56/68/101; ) Welcome to one of the most famous hotels in the Middle East, and while it may have lost most of its polish, it still retains plenty of ramshackle charm. Public areas (including the famous bar and the sitting room with a signed bill from TE Lawrence) are looking worse for wear, and rooms (even those that have been recently renovated) have peeling paintwork. Although it’s overpriced, it’s all about atmosphere and history here.
Tourath House (Map; 211 8838; www.tourathhouse.com; Sharia al-Raheb Buhayrah; s/d US$65/85; ) One of the newer courtyard hotels in Al-Jdeida, Tourath House follows the usual winning formula of lovely interior courtyard with simpler rooms, although all rooms have lovely restored ceilings. The service is friendly and helpful.
Mandaloun Hotel (Map; 228 3008; www.mandalounhotel.com; s/d US$67/78; ) Off Sharia Al-Telal, in the modern streets just north of Al-Jdeida, it’s difficult to imagine what lies behind the facade of this boutique hotel. Gorgeous is the first word that comes to mind when describing the courtyard, complete with fountain and antique furniture, as well as a cosy restaurant and bar.
The downstairs rooms are knockouts, with four-star amenities and extremely attractive decor, although the exposed stone walls lend an almost monastic simplicity. Rooms on the top floor are cramped and nowhere near as nice as their downstairs counterparts, although some have exterior windows. There’s also an annexe with old-style rooms.
Beit Wakil (Map; 221 7169; www.beitwakil.com; Sharia as-Sissi; s/d/ste US$77/110/145; ) In the Al-Jdeida quarter, this may well be Syria’s most romantic hotel. Nineteen small rooms have an always understated, sometimes quite simple aesthetic compared to the enormous charm of the public areas, while one of the suites is stunning, located in the house’s former reception room. Add 11% tax to your bill and don’t expect internet access here. For details on the hotel’s popular restaurant, see right.
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EATING
Known for its richness and use of spices, Aleppine cuisine is distinctive within Syria and, in turn, the Middle East. Dining here is a real pleasure. Although street-food joints are ubiquitous, the good restaurants are mostly concentrated in Al-Jdeida.
The block bounded by Sharias al-Maari, Bab al-Faraj, al-Quwatli and al-Baron is full of cheap eateries offering the usual array of roast chicken, shwarma and felafel. A row of excellent juice stands lines up at the Bab al-Faraj end of Sharia Yarmouk. There are tiny stalls along the length of Souq Bab Antakya/az-Zarb/al-Attarine selling cheap felafel, kebabs, hummus, pastries and fuul.
Haj Abdo al-Fawwal (Map; 7am-4pm) Opening early every morning, this is the best place to get Aleppine-style fuul, delicately seasoned with cumin, paprika, garlic, lemon juice and fresh parsley. Crowds start gathering around the tiny shop from 7am, bearing empty containers of every size and description, pushing and shoving their way to the front for their share of this aromatic dish. Don’t leave Aleppo without trying some for yourself. It’s off Saahat