Middle East - Anthony Ham [434]
Beyond the tetrapylon, the main street continues for another 500m. This stretch is littered with tumbled columns and assorted blocks of masonry and the views up towards Qala’at ibn Maan are quite lovely as the sun nears the horizon. The road ends in the impressive portico of a 3rd-century funerary temple.
South of the funerary temple, along the porticoed way, is the Camp of Diocletian, erected after the destruction of the city by Aurelian. It was possibly on the site of what had been the palace of Zenobia, although excavations so far have been unable to prove this. The camp lay near the Damascus Gate, which led on to a 2nd-century colonnaded street that supposedly linked Emesa (Homs) and the Euphrates.
To the south, at the foot of some low hills, is a series of tall, freestanding square-based towers known as the Towers of Yemliko. These were constructed as multistorey burial chambers, stacked with coffins posted in pigeonhole-like niches. The niches were sealed with stone panels carved with a head-and-shoulder portrait of the deceased; you can see many of these in the special displays at the National Museum in Damascus (Click here).
It’s possible to visit one of these towers, Elahbel, on a tour organised by the Palmyra Museum (adult/student S£75/5). Tours leave from the museum at 8.30am, 10am, 11.30am and 4.30pm (no 11.30am tour on Fridays, no 4.30pm tour October to March) and include a visit to the impressive Hypogeum of the Three Brothers, an underground burial chamber with beautiful frescoes.
Perched high on a hilltop to the west of the ruins is Qala’at ibn Maan (adult/student S£75/5; noon-sunset Wed-Mon), also known as the Arab Castle or citadel. From here, there are spectacular sunset views over the ruins. Though it’s possible to walk here, many travellers choose to take one of the many tours sold by hotels in town (approximately S£150 per person).
Palmyra Museum
With improving but still patchy labelling in English and Arabic, Palmyra Museum (adult/student S£150/10; 8am-1pm & 4-6pm Wed-Mon Apr-Sep, 8am-4pm Wed-Mon Oct-Mar) is worth a quick visit to add some context to the ruins. There’s a good, large-scale model of the Temple of Bel in its original state and some fine mosaics found in what are presumed to be nobles’ houses, just east of the temple.
Other highlights include a collection of coins depicting Zenobia and her son, countless busts and reliefs that formed part of the panels used to seal the loculi in Palmyra’s many funerary towers and hypogea (underground burial chambers), and an outstanding, 3m-high statue of the goddess Allat, associated with the Greek Athena.
Upstairs are newer exhibits that add a little depth to this otherwise modest collection: four mummies discovered in 2004 (note the shoes and children’s bones arrayed in front of the four adult bodies) and a room exhibiting local Bedouin clothes and jewellery.
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TOURS
Most hotels organise trips to surrounding sights, and those that don’t can suggest a taxi driver who can.
Al-Nakheel Hotel ( 591 0744; www.heartofdesert.com) is our favourite. Its day trips include a one-day circuit taking in Qasr al-Heir ash-Sharqi (a desert Umayyad castle 120km northeast of Palmyra), Rasafa, Lake Asad and the Euphrates River (€25 per person), but its real specialty is camel safaris (€50 per person per night) into the surrounding desert, ranging from overnight to two-week expeditions.
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SLEEPING
There are good options in the budget and midrange categories, with one of Syria’s grandest old hotels a fine option at the top end. Prices vary seasonally and according to demand. This is one place where it pays to haggle.
Budget
Baal Shamen Hotel ( 591 0453; mattress on roof S£150, s/d S£200/400) The cheapest of Palmyra’s budget options, Baal Shamen has spartan rooms that are generally pretty clean; all come with fan and heater. Better than the rooms is Mohammed Ahmed, the owner, who is a welcoming host.