Middle East - Anthony Ham [435]
Sun Hotel ( 591 1133; sunhotel-sy@hotmail.com; dm/s/d S£150/350/500; ) This recommended small hotel is a mixed bag, although all rooms have fans and clean bathrooms; ask for one with an exterior window as the interior ones can be a bit gloomy. The three-bed room on the roof was nearing completion when we were there and it promises to be the best room in the house. Tidy but dark dorms (also with bathrooms) sleep three or four. Breakfast costs S£100 and the owner’s mum is happy to cook dinner for S£150.
New Afqa Hotel ( 591 0386; mahran_afqa@hotmail.com; roof mattress S£150, s/d S£500/640; ) This excellent budget choice is run by the genial Mahran and offers basic but clean boxlike rooms, most of which have bathrooms. The welcoming reception area has satellite TV and beer. You’re slightly removed from the traveller scene elsewhere in Palmyra but closer to the ruins. Breakfast is S£100.
Citadel Hotel ( 591 0537; citadelhotel@hotmail.com; Sharia As’ad al-Amir; dm/s/d S£200/500/750; ) Facing the side of the museum, this popular place has a comfortable foyer with satellite TV and 17 clean, basic rooms. All but the dorm rooms on the roof have small bathrooms. The pick of the rooms are those on the upper floors, although ask to see a few as some can be a bit on the nose. It’s slightly overpriced, but is better value in low season when prices drop considerably.
Al-Nakheel Hotel ( 591 0744; www.alnakheelhotel.net; s/d US$15/20; ) Arguably the best-value accommodation in any price range in Palmyra, Al-Nakheel has traditional Bedouin styling in the public areas with some of it overflowing into the rooms; one has a balcony with views over the distant ruins. A Bedouin tent was under construction on the roof and meals are available, while the breakfasts are better than most. Best of all, it’s all presided over by Mohamed, a local Bedouin who’s an engaging host. It also organises tours (see left).
Midrange & Top End
Palmyra’s midrange hotels are generally of a high standard, and there’s one standout top-end choice. Quoted prices include breakfast and all offer satellite TV and heating. Credit cards are accepted in some places.
Ishtar Hotel ( 591 3073/4; www.ishtarhotel.net; Sharia al-Quwatli; s/d US$20/30; ) It’s not that the rooms here are anything special – as the management freely admits, they’re ‘simple and clean’. But this is one of the friendliest places in town, the rooms are comfortable, there’s free internet for half an hour for guests, a reasonable restaurant and cave-themed basement bar (beers S£100 to S£150). A good package all round.
Orient Hotel ( 591 0131; orienthotel@hotmail.com; s/d/tw US$25/30/35; ) A long-standing hotel in Palmyra, the Orient is popular with tour groups. The rooms are quite simple for the price, with worn carpets, but they’re well sized and the service is friendly.
Hotel Villa Palmyra ( 591 0156; villapalmyra@mail.sy; Sharia al-Quwatli; s/d US$50/60; ) This new hotel offers smallish rooms with attractive decor; probably the most comfortable midrange rooms in Palmyra and it’s also the best-run hotel in the category. Ask for a room that faces the street unless you want to look out onto a wall… There’s a rooftop restaurant, as well as a downstairs bar and pub.
Hotel Heliopolis ( 591 3921/2; heliopolis@mail.sy; s/d US$60/70; ) In a quiet location behind Saahat al-Jumhuriyya, this somewhat bland but well-maintained place offers comfortable, if overpriced, rooms. There are better hotels elsewhere for this price, but the Heliopolis has south-facing rooms that overlook the palm trees of the oasis with the Temple of Bel rising above them – these are the best hotel views in town if you can snaffle one. Breakfast costs an extra S£200.
Zenobia Cham Palace ( 591 8123; www.chamhotels.com; s US$62-96, d US$73-112; ) Long in a state of sad decline, the Zenobia, built in 1900 and one of the most famous grand old hotels of the Middle East, has finally received the overhaul it deserves. The rooms have understated traditional charm and are extremely comfortable, but best of all is the proximity to the ruins (they