Middle East - Anthony Ham [459]
Beyoğlu
Cross the Galata Bridge and cut uphill from Karaköy towards the cylindrical Galata Tower (Galata Kulesi; Map; Galata Meydanı, Karaköy; admission TL10; 9am-8pm), which dates from 1348, when Galata was a Genoese trading colony. It has survived several earthquakes, as well as the demolition of the rest of the Genoese walls in the mid-19th century. There are spectacular views from its vertiginous panorama balcony, but the entry fee is a little inflated, so you may prefer the terrace of the Anemon Galata Hotel opposite.
İstiklal Caddesi & Taksim
You can’t leave İstanbul without strolling down İstiklal Caddesi. At the top of the hill, this pedestrianised thoroughfare, once called the Grand Rue de Péra, is indisputably the most famous thoroughfare in Turkey. It’s a parade of smart shops, large embassies and churches, elegant residential buildings and fashionable teahouses and restaurants. If you want to experience a slice of modern Turkey, there’s no better place than İstiklal Caddesi. It’s almost permanently crowded with locals, who patronise the atmosphere-laden meyhaneler (taverns) that line the side streets or indulge in shopping sprees in the hundreds of shops along its length. It’s served by a picturesque restored tram that trundles up and down the boulevard.
There’s a plethora of sights, but the colourful Fish Market (Balık Pazar; Map) and, in the Cité de Pera building, the Çiçek Pasajı (Flower Passage; Map), are absolute must-sees; both are near the Galatasaray Lisesi (a prestigious public school).
These days locals bypass the touts and the mediocre food on offer at the Çiçek Pasajı and make their way behind the passage to one of İstanbul’s most colourful and popular eating and drinking precincts, Nevizade Sokak.
At the northern end of İstiklal Caddesi, shambolic Taksim Square (Map), with its huge hotels, park and Atatürk Cultural Centre, is not exactly an architectural gem but it’s the symbolic heart of modern İstanbul.
Ortaköy
Ortaköy is a cute suburb east of Dolmabahçe Palace, right by the Bosphorus. The waterside Ortaköy Camii (Büyük Mecidiye Camii; Map), the area’s most prominent feature, mixes baroque and neoclassical influences. With the modern Bosphorus Bridge looming behind it, the mosque provides the classic photo opportunity for those wanting to illustrate İstanbul’s ‘old meets new’ character.
Try to time your visit for Sunday, when a bustling street market fills the area’s cobbled lanes. You could easily combine a visit to Dolmabahçe with a leisurely stroll in Ortaköy. To get here from the palace, jump on a bus heading east on the Bosphorus shore road.
Return to beginning of chapter
ACTIVITIES
Hamams
The Cağaloğlu Hamamı Map; 0212-522 2424; www.cagalogluhamami.com.tr; Yerebatan Caddesi 34; bath services TL30-100; 8am-10pm men, 8am-8pm women) is the city’s most beautiful hamam. It’s pricey and pretty touristy, but the surroundings are simply exquisite. Separate baths each have a large camekan (reception area) with private, lockable cubicles where it’s possible to have a nap or a tea at the end of your bath. The Çemberlitaş Hamamı Map; 0212-522 7974; www.cemberlitashamami.com.tr; Vezir Hanı Caddesi 8, Çemberlitaş; bath services TL29-79; 6am-midnight) was designed by the great Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan in 1584, and is one of İstanbul’s most atmospheric hamams.
Bosphorus Cruise
Don’t leave the city without exploring the Bosphorus. Most day-trippers take the much-loved Public Bosphorus Excursion Ferry (one way/return TL10/17.50; 10.35am year-round, noon & 1.35pm mid-Apr–Oct) up its entire length. Ferries depart from Eminönü (Map) and stop at various points before turning around at Anadolu Kavağı. The shores are sprinkled with monuments and various sights, including the monumental Dolmabahçe Palace, the majestic Bosphorus Bridge, the waterside suburbs of Arnavutköy, Bebek, Kanlıca, Emirgan and Sarıyer, as well as lavish yalıs (waterfront wooden summer residences) and numerous mosques.
* * *
THE PLEASURES OF THE BATH
After a long day’s sightseeing, few