Middle East - Anthony Ham [460]
Next you’ll have to make a choice. It’s cheapest to wash yourself with the soap, shampoo and towel you brought with you. The hot room will be ringed with individual basins that you fill from the taps above. Then you sluice the water over yourself with a plastic scoop. But it’s far more enjoyable to let an attendant do it for you, dousing you with warm water and then scrubbing you with a coarse cloth mitten. Afterwards you’ll be lathered with a sudsy swab, rinsed off and shampooed.
When all this is complete you’re likely to be offered a massage – an experience worth having at least once during your trip.
Bath etiquette dictates that men should keep the peştamal on at all times.
Traditional hamams have separate sections for men and women, or admit men and women at separate times. In tourist areas most hamams are happy for foreign men and women to bathe together.
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Princes’ Islands (Adalar)
With good beaches, open woodland, a couple of monasteries, Victorian villas and transport by horse-drawn carriages, this string of nine spotless islands, especially Büyükada (the biggest), make an ideal escape from the noise and hustle of İstanbul. Ferries (TL2.80) to the islands leave from the Adalar İskelesi dock at Kabataş (Map), opposite the tram stop. Try to go midweek to avoid the crowds.
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TOURS
İstamboul Insolite Map; 0212-241 2846; www.istanbulguide.net/insolite; Bahtiyar Sokak 6, Nışantaşı; full-day tours €50-150) This small agency runs a variety of offbeat tours.
Kirkit Voyage Map; 0212-518 2282; www.kirkit.com; Amiral Tafdil Sokak 12, Sultanahmet; half- & full-day tours €23-50) Kirkit specialises in small-group walking tours of the must-see sights.
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FESTIVALS & EVENTS
The İstanbul International Music Festival (www.iksv.org/muzik), from early June to early July, attracts big-name artists from around the world who perform in venues that are not always open to the public (such as Aya İrini Kilisesi).
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SLEEPING
İstanbul’s accommodation is becoming quite pricey. For the time being, the best area to stay remains Cankurtaran, where the quiet streets have moderate hotels with stunning views from their roof terraces, and there are also more-luxurious options. Unless otherwise stated, rates include breakfast and private bathrooms; the exception is hostel dorms, which have shared bathrooms.
Budget
Private rooms are overpriced at some of these options.
Mavı Guest house Map; 0212-517 7287; www.maviguesthouse.com; Kutlugün Sokak 3, Sultanahmet; rooftop mattress/dm/d €8/12/36; ) Tiny Mavı’s management is very friendly, which is just as well since some of its rooms are cramped and windowless, with uncomfortable beds. Die-hard backpackers might want to claim one of the 24 mattresses on the decrepit rooftop.
Bahaus Guest house Map; 0212-638 6534; www.travelinistanbul.com; Akbıyık Caddesi, Cankurtaran; dm €15, d with/without bathroom €50/40; ) Generating great word of mouth, Bahaus’ friendly and knowledgeable staff run a professional operation that avoids the institutional feel of some of its nearby competitors. Top marks go to the rooftop terrace bar.
Sultan Hostel Map; 0212-516 9260; www.sultanhostel.com; Akbıyık Caddesi 21, Cankurtaran; dm €14, d with/without bathroom €44/38; ) The Sultan offers freshly painted dorms with new bunk beds and good mattresses, and a 10% discount for HI cardholders.
Orient International Hostel Map; 0212-518 0789; www.orienthostel.com; Akbıyık Caddesi 13, Cankurtaran; dm/d €14/70, s without bathroom € 70; ) Bursting with backpackers, the Orient should only be considered if you’re young, don’t care about creature comforts and are ready to party. There’s a shower for every