Middle East - Anthony Ham [461]
Hotel Peninsula Map; 0212-458 6850; www.hotelpeninsula.com; Adliye Sokak 6, Cankurtaran; s/d €35/45; ) This unassuming, super-friendly hotel has 12 comfortable rooms with private bathrooms, plus a lovely terrace with sea views and comfortable hammocks.
Midrange
Sultanahmet and Cankurtaran harbour a smorgasbord of high-quality midrange options.
Hanedan Hotel Map; 0212-516 4869; www.hanedanhotel.com; Adliye Sokak 3, Cankurtaran; s €40, d €60-65; ) Pale lemon walls and polished wooden floors give the Hanedan’s rooms an elegant feel, and the roof terrace overlooks the sea and Aya Sofya.
Hotel Alp Guest house Map; 0212-517 7067; www.alpguesthouse.com; Adliye Sokak 4, Cankurtaran; s/d €45/65; ) The Alp lives up to its location in Sultanahmet’s premier small-hotel enclave, offering attractive, well-equipped rooms with four-poster beds at reasonable prices.
Hotel Alaturka Map; 0212-458 7900; www.hotelalaturka.com; Akbıyık Caddesi 5, Cankurtaran; s €70, d €85-105; ) Large rooms with mod-cons, such as minibars and satellite TVs, are the hallmarks of this immaculately maintained hotel. The decor is conservative, but pleasantly so, and the roof terrace has one of the area’s best views.
Hotel Şebnem Map; 0212-517 6623; www.sebnemhotel.net; Adliye Sokak 1, Cankurtaran; s €70, d €90-100; ) The Şebnem’s pleasantly simple rooms have wooden floors, recently renovated bathrooms and comfortable beds. Framed Ottoman prints provide a touch of class.
Top End
Hotel Empress Zoe Map; 0212-518 2504; www.emzoe.com; Adliye Sokak 10, Cankurtaran; s €75, d €110-135, ste €120-240; ) This American-owned boutique hotel has individually and charmingly decorated rooms and suites. Breakfast is served in a flower-filled garden and there’s a rooftop lounge-terrace with excellent views.
Sirkeci Konak Map; 0212-528 43 44; Taya Hatun Sokak 5, Sirkeci; r €190-320; ) Sirkeci’s owners know what keeps guests happy – large, well-equipped rooms, with extras such as tea-and-coffee making equipment, satellite TV, quality toiletries and luxe linen. There’s also a wellness centre with pool, gym and hamam, as well as complimentary afternoon teas and Anatolian cooking lessons.
Tria Hotel İstanbul Map; 0212-518 4518; www.triahotelistanbul.com; Turbıyık Sokak 7, Cankurtaran; s €180, d standard/superior €218/280; ) Extremely comfortable and quiet rooms offer tea-and-coffee-making equipment, flat-screen TV, work desk and large bed. All rooms are attractively decorated with polished floorboards, silk curtains, embroidered bedspreads and objets d’art. There’s a comfortable lounge and a roof terrace with great views.
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EATING
Teeming with affordable fast-food joints, cafés and restaurants, İstanbul is a food-lover’s paradise. Unfortunately, Sultanahmet has the least-impressive range of eating options in the city, so we recommend crossing the Galata Bridge to join the locals.
Sultanahmet & Around
Caferağa Medresesi Map; 0212-513 3601; Caferiye Sokak; soup TL3, köfte TL10; 8.30am-6pm) This teensy lokanta in the gorgeous courtyard of a Sinan-designed medrese near Topkapı Palace is a rare treat in Sultanahmet, allowing you to nosh in stylish surrounds without paying through the nose.
Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi Selim Usta Map; 0212-520 0566; Divan Yolu Caddesi 12; 11am-11pm) Beware the other köfte places along this strip purporting to be the meşhur (famous) köfte restaurant – No 12 is the real McCoy.
Sefa Restaurant Map; 0212-520 0670; Nuruosmaniye Caddesi 17, Cağaloğlu; mains TL6.50-16; 7am-5pm) Locals rate this place on the way to the Grand Bazaar. You can order from an English-language menu or choose from the bain-marie. Try to arrive early-ish for lunch; many dishes run out by 1.30pm.
Kir Evi Map; 0212-512 6942; Hoca Rüstem Sokak 9; mains TL16.50-21; 10.30am-2.30am) Meals score for their size and price rather than their quality, but the biggest draw is the entertainment. Waiters serenade guests with everything from disco anthems to Arabesk numbers,