Middle East - Anthony Ham [462]
Dubb Map; 0212-513 7308; İncili Çavuş Sokak, Alemdar; TL12-24; noon-3pm & 6-10.30pm) One of İstanbul’s few Indian restaurants, Dubb specialises in mild tandoori dishes, but serves a range of fragrant curries, including vegetarian options. Its 4th-floor terrace offers views of Aya Sofya.
Nominating Sultanahmet’s best take-away döner kebap is a hard ask, but many locals are keen on the döner (TL4 to TL9) at Sedef Meşhur Dönerci Map; Divan Yolu), which is only open during the day.
Beyoğlu & Around
Gani Gani Şark Sofrası Map; 0212-244 8401; www.naumpasakonagi.com; Taksim Kuyu Sokak 11; pides TL7-9.50, kebaps TL7.50-10; 10am-11pm) Young Turkish couples love lolling on the traditional Anatolian seating at this cheap and friendly eatery. Tables and chairs are also available to the enjoy kebaps, mantı (Turkish ravioli) and pide.
Zencefil Map; 0212-243 8234; Kurabiye Sokak 8; mains TL10-12; 11am-11pm Tue-Sun) Comfortable and quietly stylish, this popular vegetarian café offers crunchy-fresh organic produce, homemade bread and guilt-free desserts.
Hacı Abdullah Map; 0212-293 8561; Sakızağacı Caddesi 9a; www.haciadbullah.com.tr; mains TL9-18; 11am-11pm; ) Just thinking about this İstanbul institution’s imam bayıldı (eggplant stuffed with tomatoes, onions and garlic and cooked in olive oil) makes our taste buds go into overdrive.
Kafe Ara Map; 0212-245 4104; Tosbağ Sokak 8a; mains TL13-18; 8am-midnight) A converted garage with tables and chairs spilling into a wide laneway, Ara’s a funky setting to enjoy panninis, salads and pastas.
Kahvedan Map; 0212-292 4030; Akarsu Caddesi 50, Cihangir; www.kahvedancafe.com/en; breakfast plates TL7-12, soups TL5-6, wraps TL9-14, mains TL13-21; 9am-2am Mon-Fri, 9am-4am Sat & Sun) This expat haven serves dishes such as bacon and eggs, French toast and falafel wraps.
White Mill Map; 0212-292 2895; www.whitemillcafe.com; Susam Sokak 13, Cihangir; breakfast plate TL17-19, mains TL15-23; 9.30am-1.30am) This industrial-chic bar-restaurant serves tasty, organic food and, in fine weather, its rear garden is a wonderful spot to enjoy a leisurely breakfast.
Sofyalı 9 Map; 0212-245 0362; Sofyalı Sokak 9, Tünel; meze TL4-8, mains TL10-16; 11am-1am Mon-Sat) Tables at this gem are hot property at weekends. It serves some of the city’s best meyhane (tavern) food – notably the Arnavut ciğeri (Albanian fried liver), fried fish and meze – in surroundings as welcoming as they are attractive.
Ortaköy
The House Café Map; 0212-261 5818; İskele Sq 42, Ortaköy; breakfast platter TL24, sandwiches TL17.50-23.50, pizzas TL16.50-28.50) This casually chic café, a huge space on the waterfront, is one of the best spots for Sunday brunch (10am to 2pm), offering a good-quality buffet. Food at other times can be disappointing.
Banyan Map; 0212-259 9060; www.banyanrestaurant.com; 3rd fl, Salhane Sokak 3, Ortaköy; mains TL24-39; 11am-midnight) The excellent Asian food served at this stylish eatery is nearly as impressive as its view of the Bosphorus Bridge and Ortaköy Mosque. Get stuck into the three-course fixed menu lunch (TL40).
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DRINKING
There’s a thriving bar scene in Beyoğlu, and there’s nothing better than swigging a few glasses of rakı around Balo Sokak and Sofyalı Sokak, or in the sleek rooftop bars on both sides of İstiklal. Sultanahmet is not as happening, but there are a few decent watering holes, particularly on Akbıyık Caddesi in summer.
On the top floor of a dishevelled building off İstiklal, Leb-i Derya Map; 0212-244 1886; www.lebiderya.com; 7th fl, Kumbaracı Yokuşu 115, Tünel; 11am-2am Mon-Fri, 8.30am-3am Sat & Sun) is unpretentious and a local favourite for its Bosphorus and Old İstanbulviews.
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GETTING THERE & AWAY
Air
İstanbul’s Atatürk International Airport (IST; Atatürk Hava Limanı; off Map; 0212-465 5555; www.ataturkairport.com) is 23km west of Sultanahmet. Sabiha Gökçen International Airport (off Map; 0216-585 5000; www.sgairport.com), some 50km east of Sultanahmet, on the Asian side of the city, is increasingly