Middle East - Anthony Ham [465]
Sleeping & Eating
Hotel Aksaray ( 212 6035; fax 225 6806; Alipaşa Ortakapı Caddesi; s/d/tr/q TL35/65/80/100, s/d/tr without bathroom TL30/55/70; ) This cheapie has basic rooms in a charmingly decrepit old building and bathrooms rammed into small spaces.
Tuna Hotel ( /fax 214 3340/3323; Maarif Caddesi 17; s/d/tr/q TL50/70/90/100; ) An excellent choice for the price, the Tuna is at the quieter southern end of Maarif Caddesi.
Efe Hotel ( 213 6166; www.efehotel.com; Maarif Caddesi 13; s/d TL85/125; ) The Efe is a stylish place, especially the lobby, which is filled with antiques and curios. The rooms, especially the 2nd-floor doubles, are big and bright, with fridges and electric kettles.
There’s an assortment of eateries along Saraçlar Caddesi. The riverside restaurants south of the centre are more atmospheric, but most open only in summer and are booked solid at weekends.
Getting There & Away
The otogar is 9km east of the city centre. There are regular bus services for İstanbul (TL20, 2½ hours, 235km) and Çanakkale (TL25, four hours, 230km). If you’re heading for the Bulgarian border crossing at Kapıkule, catch a dolmuş (TL5, 25 minutes) from opposite the tourist office on Talat Paşa Caddesi.
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İZNİK
0224 / pop 20,000
A walled town laden with history and situated by a lake, İznik is popular with weekending İstanbullus but largely ignored by tourists, which has helped preserve its Turkish character. Stroll along the lakefront or mosey around the city centre, admiring the ruins of Aya Sofya (Church of Holy Wisdom; admission TL5; 9am-noon & 1-6pm Tue-Sun) and the Seljuk-style Yeşil Cami (Green Mosque), built between 1378 and 1387. The minaret, decorated with green-and-blue glazed zigzag tiles, is a wonder. It’s also worth sparing an hour to visit the İznik Museum (İznik Müzesi; 757 1027; Müze Sokak; admission TL2; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun), which contains examples of İznik tiles. More-active types can follow a 5km circuit around most of İznik’s walls, which were first erected in Roman times. Four main gates pierce the walls; the Lefke and İstanbul gates are most impressive.
Sleeping & Eating
Kaynarca Pansiyon ( 757 1753; www.kaynarca.s5.com; Kılıçaslan Caddesi, Gündem Sokak 1; dm/s/d/tr TL20/30/50/75; ) This cheerful and central pension is a budget traveller’s dream. It’s pathologically clean and there’s a spacious rooftop terrace for leisurely breakfasts (TL5).
Hotel Aydın ( 757 7650; www.iznikhotelaydin.com; Kılıçaslan Caddesi 64; s/d/tr TL50/80/100) Known locally for its onsite pastanesi (patisserie/bakery), the Aydın’s smallish rooms come with TV, phone, balcony and chintzy bedspreads.
Çamlık Motel ( 757 1631; www.iznik-camlikmotel.com; Göl Sahil Yolu; s/d TL60/100; ) At the southern end of the lakefront, this modern motel has spacious rooms and a restaurant with water views. It’s a favourite with tour groups, so book ahead on summer weekends. The restaurant is recommended by locals as İznik’s best spot to enjoy fish.
Köfteci Yusuf ( 757 3597; Atatürk Caddesi 75; mains from TL5) A favourite lunchtime spot for juicy köfte and other grills with chunky bread and hot green peppers. Leave room for the gorgeous desserts.
On the lakefront the Köşk Café, Sedef Aile Café Salonu and Lambada Café are all good for (nonalcoholic) drinks and snacks.
Getting There & Away
There are hourly buses from the İstanbul’s main otogar to Bursa (TL7.50, 1½ hours) and frequent buses to Yalova (TL7.50, one hour), where you can catch a fast ferry to İstanbul.
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BURSA
0224 / pop 1 million
Sprawling at the base of Uludağ, Bursa was the first capital of the Ottoman Empire. Today, Turkey’s biggest winter-sports centre is a modern, prosperous city with lots of vitality and personality. Allow at least a day to take in the ancient mosques, medreses, hamams and their enthralling designs. If you feel in need of some pampering,