Middle East - Anthony Ham [466]
The city centre, with its banks and shops, is along Atatürk Caddesi, between the Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque) to the west and the main square, Cumhuriyet Alanı, commonly called Heykel (Statue), to the east.
Çekirge is a 10-minute bus or dolmuş ride from Heykel via Atatürk Caddesi. Bursa’s otogar is an inconvenient 10km north of the centre; take bus No 38 or a taxi (around TL20).
Sights & Activities
About 1km east of Heykel is the supremely beautiful Yeşil Cami (Green Mosque; 1424) and its stunningly tiled Yeşil Türbe (Green Tomb; admission free; 8am-noon & 1-5pm). Right in the city centre, the largest of Bursa’s mosques is the Seljuk Ulu Cami (Grand Mosque; Atatürk Caddesi), built in 1396. Behind the Ulu Cami, Bursa’s sprawling Covered Market (Kapalı Çarşı) is proudly local, especially if you find İstanbul’s Grand Bazaar too touristy.
Uphill and west of the Ulu Cami, on the way to Çekirge, don’t miss the 14th-century tombs of Osman and Orhan, the first Ottoman sultans. A kilometre beyond lies the delightful Muradiye Complex, with a mosque and 12 decorated tombs dating from the 15th and 16th centuries. With a shady park in front, it’s a peaceful oasis in a busy city.
Whether it’s winter or summer, it’s worth taking a cable-car ride up the 2543m-high Uludağ (Great Mountain) to take advantage of the view and the cool, clear air of Uludağ National Park. To get to the teleferik (cable car; return trip TL8) from Bursa, take a city bus from stop 1 or a dolmuş from behind the City Museum (Kent Müzesi). Bear in mind that the skiing facilities, while some of Turkey’s best, are not European-resort standard.
Sleeping
There are a couple of decent options in Bursa, but also consider Çekirge, which has better, quieter options. The suburb’s hotels are generally more expensive, but prices include the use of their mineral baths. To get here, take a ‘Çekirge’ bus, or a dolmuş from Heykel or along Atatürk Caddesi.
Hotel Güneş ( 222 1404; İnebey Caddesi 75, Bursa; s/d/tr/q without bathroom TL26/46/54/68) The family-run Güneş is Bursa’s best budget pension, with small, neat rooms in a restored Ottoman house.
Mutlu Hotel ( 233 2829; mutluhotel@mynet.com; Murat Caddesi 19, Çekirge; s/d/tr TL50/78/90; ) A reliable choice, the Mutlu combines a rustic wooden exterior with spacious marble thermal baths. The decor sometimes struggles to get past 1973, but the café outside is more modern.
Termal Hotel Gold 2 ( 235 6030; www.hotelgold.com.tr; I Murat Cami Aralığı, Çekirge; s/d TL60/90; ) This restored 1878 house next to the I Murat Camii has wooden interiors and deep red drapery. Baths and parking are included, and the roof terrace is a bonus.
Hotel Artıç ( 224 5505; www.artichotel.com; Ulu Camii Karşısı 95, Bursa; s/d/tr TL60/90/100; ) A decent option towards the western end of Atatürk Caddesi, with light, spacious rooms and good views of Ulu Cami from the breakfast salon. Ask for a discount on the posted rates.
Eating & Drinking
Sakli Bahçe (Çekirge Caddesi 2, Çekirge; mains TL4-8; 11am-11pm) The perfect place to watch the sunset, this chilled-out hilltop garden is the preferred meeting point for Bursa’s bright young things, lured by excellent pizza and kebaps.
Yusuf (Culture Park; meze TL4-10; 11am-11pm) ‘Joe’s Place’ features a meze- and grill-laden terrace set among shady trees. The service is so good that we saw waiters break out into a brisk trot to help customers.
Çiçek Izgara ( 221 6526; Belediye Caddesi 15; mains TL9-12; 11am-9.30pm) One block from Koza Parkı, behind the half-timbered belediye (town hall), this modern grillhouse is good for lone women and has a 1st-floor salon to watch the flower market below.
Make sure you spend an evening at one of the fish restaurants on Sakarya Caddesi, Bursa’s most atmospheric eating precinct. After eating there, you’ll find a few bars nearby, including Barantico and Gedikli Meyhane on Sakarya Caddesi and Müsadenızle on Altıparmak Caddesi.
If you’re after a