Middle East - Anthony Ham [467]
Getting There & Away
The fastest way to get to İstanbul (TL20, 2½ to three hours) is to take a bus to Yalova, then a catamaran to İstanbul’s Yenikapı docks. Get a bus that departs Bursa’s bus terminal at least 90 minutes before the scheduled boat departure.
Karayolu ile (by road) buses to İstanbul take four to five hours and drag you around the Bay of İzmit. Those designated feribot ile (by ferry) go to Topçular, east of Yalova, and take the ferry to Eskihisar, a much quicker and more pleasant way to go.
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AEGEAN COAST
While the Aegean coast may not be as scenic as the Mediterranean, its beaches define the western edge of the Anatolian landmass formerly known as Asia Minor, and the area is studded with fantastic historic sites. Come here to see Troy, Ephesus and Pergamum, and more-recent history at the battlefield sites on the Gallipoli Peninsula.
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ÇANAKKALE
0286 / pop 86,600
The liveliest settlement on the Dardanelles, this sprawling harbour town would be worth a visit for its sights, nightlife and overall vibe even if it didn’t lie opposite the Gallipoli Peninsula. Its sweeping waterfront promenade heaves during the summer months.
A good base for visiting Troy, Çanakkale has become a popular destination for weekending Turks; if possible, plan your visit for midweek.
Sleeping
Rooms are expensive around Anzac Day (25 April) and usually booked solid months before that date.
Anzac House Hostel ( 213 5969; www.anzachouse.com; 59-61 Cumhuriyet Meydanı; dm/s/d/tr without bathroom TL16/28/40/54; ) Not to be confused with the three-star Anzac Hotel, central, cheap Anzac House is the main backpackers haunt.
Efes Hotel ( 217 3256; www.efeshotelcanakkale.com; Aralık Sokak 5; s/d TL30/50; ) An excellent budget choice, with cheery decor and a welcoming owner. The best rooms have open showers and orthopaedic mattresses. The breakfasts are great, and there’s a little garden with a fountain.
Yellow Rose Pension ( 217 3343; www.yellowrose.4mg.com; Aslan Abla Sokak 5; dm/s/d/tr TL17/30/55/60; ) This bright, attractive guesthouse has a central but quiet location plus extras including a laundry service (TL15) and fully equipped kitchen.
Kervansaray Hotel ( 217 8192; www.otelkervansaray.com; Fetvane Sokak 13; s/d/tr €35/50/60; ) Çanakkale’s only boutique hotel is as lovely as you could hope for, laying on Ottoman touches in keeping with the restored house it occupies. The 19 rooms (including eight in a sympathetic new annexe) have a dash of character, without being overdone.
Çanak Hotel ( 214 1582; www.canakhotel.com; Dibek Sokak 1; s/d €35/60; ) This excellent midrange option is just off Cumhuriyet Meydanı, with a stunning rooftop bar and games room, and a skylit atrium.
Eating & Drinking
To eat on the hoof, browse the stalls along the kordon (waterfront promenade) offering corn on the cob, mussels and other simple items. A local specialty is peynir helvası, made with soft white village cheese, flour, butter and sugar.
Köy Evi ( 213 4687; Yalı Caddesi 13; menu TL5; 8am-midnight) Proper home cooking rules in this tiny eatery, where local women make mantı, börek and gözleme (TL1.50).
Doyum ( 217 1866; Cumhuriyet Meydanı 13; main TL4.50-10) Generally acknowledged to be the best kebap and pide joint in town, a visit to Doyum is worth it for the good cheer alone.
Benzin ( 212 2237; Eski Balıkhane Sokak 11; pizzas TL8-12.50; 8.30am-1am) This 1960s-style waterfront café-bar is a relaxing spot for a drink and a bite, but gets packed at weekends.
Hayal Kahvesi ( 217 0470; Saat Kulesi Meydanı 6; admission free-TL5; noon-1am, happy hour 4-9pm) Facing the clock tower, this café-bar (also called TNT Bar) with courtyard seating is Çanakkale’s most popular live music venue.
Getting There & Away
There are regular buses to Ayvalık (TL20, 3½ hours), İstanbul