Middle East - Anthony Ham [477]
Afterwards you can swim amid sunken Roman columns at Hierapolis’ Antique Pool (adult/child TL18/9; 9am-7pm) and visit the excellent Hierapolis Archaeology Museum (admission TL2; 9am-12.30pm & 1.30-7.15pm Tue-Sun), which contains some spectacular sarcophagi and friezes from Hierapolis and nearby Afrodisias. As you return to the village, keep looking back for great views of the glittering travertines.
AFRODISIAS
Ephesus may be the crème de la crème of western Anatolia’s archaeological sites, but the ruined city of Afrodisias (admission TL5; 9am-7pm May-Sep, 9am-5pm Oct-Apr) is thought by many to rival it. Because of its isolation, it is less overrun with coach parties. Most of what you see dates back to at least the 2nd century AD. If it’s not too busy, the site exudes an eerie ambience that is unique and unforgettable. The 270m-long stadium, one of the biggest in the classical world, is a startling vision, as are the Temple of Aphrodite and the white-marble theatre.
The only downside is that access by public transport is not easy. It’s more sensible to arrange a tour (TL30) from Pamukkale. Tours leave with a minimum of four people, a figure that’s usually achievable.
Sleeping & Eating
Competition between Pamukkale’s many pensions is intense, and the services on offer are much better than in most other towns. Most places provide good, cheap home-cooked meals and serve wine and beer. Several welcoming, family-run pensions are clustered at the junction of İnönü and Menderes Caddesis.
Hotel Dört Mevsim ( 272 2009; www.hoteldortmevsim.com; Hasan Tahsin Caddesi 19; dm TL10, s/d TL20/35; ) The ‘Four Seasons’ is quite different to its top-end namesakes, but has simple and clean family-run rooms in a quiet lane. Expect lots of bright decor, and an even brighter welcome. Camping is TL10 for two people.
Aspawa Pension ( 272 2094; www.aspawapension.com; Turgut Özal Caddesi 28; s/d €13/22; ) Another centrally located pension, the Aspawa ticks all the value boxes. Pool, air-con, wi-fi and good food in a family atmosphere.
Beyaz Kale Pension ( 272 2064; www.beyazkalepension.com; Menderes Caddesi; s/d €15/25; ) The ‘White Castle’ is handy for the centre of the village and has spotless rooms arranged around a pool. Welcoming family hostess Haçer is a whiz in the kitchen, especially when it comes to vegetarian food. Larger rooms are also available.
Artemis Yoruk Hotel ( 272 2073; www.artemisyorukhotel.com; Atatürk Caddesi; dm/s/d/tr/q €7/15/19/25/32; ) With a super-central location, this sprawling edifice has a wide range of rooms from four-bed dorms to private and family rooms. The bar offering ‘bloody cold beer’ can get pleasingly raucous.
Melrose Hotel ( 272 2767; www.allgauhotel.com; Hasan Tahsin Caddesi; r TL35-50; ) Renovations have installed an outdoor dining area at this friendly, family-run spot with clean-as-a-whistle rooms and two swimming pools. The flasher rooms (TL70 to TL80) have bijou balconies and kitschly romantic circular beds.
GETTING THERE & AWAY
In summer, Pamukkale has several direct buses to Selçuk, but it’s best to assume for most destinations you’ll have to change in Denizli (TL2, 30 minutes). Pamukkale has no proper otogar; buses drop you at the Denizli dolmuş stop.
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BODRUM
0252 / pop 28,580
Some people will tell you Bodrum is an unsophisticated low-end resort town; they obviously haven’t been to Kuşadası. In fact, Bodrum manages to welcome the summer hordes without diluting its character and charm. With laws in place restricting the height of buildings, the town has neat architectural uniformity. Out of season, the whitewashed houses and subtropical gardens can appear almost idyllic.
Orientation & Information
The otogar (Cevat Şakir Caddesi) is 500m inland from the Adliye (Yeni) Camii, a small mosque at the centre of the town. The PTT and several banks with ATMs are on Cevat Şakir. There are internet cafés on Üçkuyular Caddesi, all charging about TL2