Middle East - Anthony Ham [478]
Sights & Activities
Bodrum’s star attraction is the conspicuous Castle of St Peter. Built in 1437 by the Crusaders, the castle houses the Museum of Underwater Archaeology ( 316 2516; admission TL10; 8am-noon & 1-5pm winter, 9am-noon & 1-7pm Tue-Sun summer), containing finds from shipwrecks dating back to 1025; and a model of a Carian princess’ tomb, inside the French Tower (admission €2.75; 10am-noon & 2-4pm Tue-Fri). Sadly there’s little left of the Mausoleum of Halicarnassus (admission TL5; 8.30am-5.30pm Tue-Sun), the monumental tomb of King Mausolus, which was once among the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World.
Bodrum is famous for its scuba diving. Look for the dive centres on the boats moored near the tourist office, including Snorkel & Dive Center ( 313 6017; Cevat Şakir Caddesi 5). Numerous yachts moored along Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi on the western bay run day trips (about €12) around the bay.
Sleeping
There are plenty of budget hotels and pensions in the centre and along the Eastern Bay, although be aware that the closer you are to the front the less chance you’ll have of getting a good nights sleep. A number of upmarket boutique hotels line the coast just east of the Eastern Bay.
Sevin Pension ( 316 7682; www.sevinpension.com; Türkkuyusu Caddesi 5; dm €9-11, s/d €14/24 in winter; dm €13, s €18-22, d €25-36, tr €39-45 in summer; ) It may be basic, but for the price it offers a lot: a prime (albeit noisy) location, TV, free wi-fi, good breakfasts and helpful staff.
Sedan Pansiyon ( 316 0355; off Türkkuyusu Caddesi 121; s/d €12/24, without bathroom €10/16) It’s at the basic end of the spectrum, with rooms of varying sizes and states of repair arranged around a ramshackle, peaceful courtyard.
Bahçeli Ağar Aile Pansiyonu ( 316 1648; 1402 Sokak 4; s/d €20/36) This endearing little pension is located in a passageway off Neyzen Tevik Caddesi, opposite the marina. With a little courtyard overhung by vines, it has an intimate feel, and guests have use of the kitchen.
Mylasa Pansiyon ( 316 1846; Cumhuriyet Caddesi 34; s/d €25/35; ) The archetypal Bodrum pension, back from the beach but very much at the heart of the party scene. Rooms are small with TVs, but none too modern looking. The café-restaurant is lively and there are great panoramic views from the terrace.
Kilavuz Otel ( 316 3892; www.kilavuzotel.com; cnr Atatürk Caddesi & Adliye Sokak 17; s/d €35/40; ) Striking a good balance between proximity to the front and the need for peace and quiet, this family-run place offers 15 simply furnished, clean rooms.
Baç Pansiyon ( 316 2497; bacpansiyon@turk.net; Cumhuriyet Caddesi 14; s €28-33, d €45-65; ) Small but stylish and all in marble, wood and wrought iron, this central hotel also boasts about the best views in Bodrum. It sits right above the water and four of its 10 comfortable room have delightful balconies over the waves.
El Vino Hotel (313 8770; www.elvinobodrum.com; Pamili Sokak; s/d €80/120; ) The dark backstreet location doesn’t look that promising, but behind the stone wall is one of the town’s loveliest hotels. The El Vino’s rooms are large and well appointed with wooden floors, large beds, TVs and writing desks.
Eating & Drinking
Bodrum’s finest, and most-expensive restaurants are all located along the Western Bay; its worst on the Eastern Bay. In between, on Cevat Şakir Caddesi and in the bazaar are the best value options. Here you’ll find a collection of Turkish restaurants and büfes (snack bars), where you can pick up a döner wrapped in pide for TL4. As elsewhere, check prices before ordering fish.
Nazik Ana ( 313 1891; Eski Hukumet Sokak 7; meat mains TL4-5, vegetarian mains TL2-3; 9am-10pm, closed Sun in winter) Hidden away down a narrow alley and definitely worth hunting out, this simple but atmospheric place is a huge hit locally. With its point-and-pick counter, it’s a great place to sample different Turkish dishes.