Middle East - Anthony Ham [479]
Liman Köftecisi ( 316 5060; Neyzen Tevfik Caddesi 172; mains TL7-12.50; 8am-midnight) The famous Liman serves delicious food at decent prices. Köfte is the specialty. Of the six types, the TL10 Liman köfte (with yogurt, tomato sauce and butter) is the top dish.
Kırmızı ( 316 4918; Neyzen Tevik Caddesi 44; meze TL5-8, mains TL10-14; 11.30am-midnight) Serving Mediterranean food made from fresh local ingredients, the Kırmızı is a characterful place with three floors and a garden terrace. The walls are used to exhibit the works of local artists.
Tranca ( 316 6610; Cumhuriyet Caddesi 36; meze TL8-10, mains TL12-24; 11am-midnight) Jutting out into the bay, the family-run Tranca boasts about the best views of anywhere in Bodrum. Its specialties are tuzda baŀk (fish baked in salt) and testi kebabı (casserole served in a clay pot); both cost TL40 to TL50 with a minimum of two people.
For drinking and entertainment follow the normal rule of thumb: for cheap and cheerful head to the Eastern Bay, for expensive and classy, think Western Bay. Nightclubs such as Halıkarnas and the floating Marine Club Catamaran are famous party hotspots, but there are quieter hangouts, too. Try the small orientalist-style Campanella Bar ( 316 5302; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; noon-4am), adorned with flower boxes set above a shop on a small alley. This spot is full of atmosphere and usually has live music playing.
Getting There & Away
Airlines including Turkish Airlines fly from İstanbul and elsewhere to Bodrum International Airport, 60km away and connected to Bodrum by Havaş shuttle bus.
By bus, there are services to more or less anywhere you could wish to go. Useful services include those to İstanbul (TL70), Kuşadası (TL20) and Marmaris (TL20).
Daily ferries (€25 same-day return) link Bodrum with Kos (Greece); hydrofoils (€35 same-day return) operate from Monday to Saturday between May and October. In summer there are also two weekly hydrofoils to Rhodes (Rhodos; €50 one way, €60 same-day return); check with the Bodrum Ferryboat Association ( 316 0882; www.bodrumferryboat.com; Kale Caddesi Cümrük Alanı 22), on the dock past the western entrance to the castle.
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MEDITERRANEAN COAST
The western Mediterranean, known as the ‘Turquoise Coast’, is a glistening stretch of clear blue sea where Gods once played in sublime pebble coves and spectacular ruins abound. In villages too pretty to postcard, sun-kissed locals yawn and smile at travellers’ never-ending quest for the ‘Med Life’.
The region’s seamless mix of history and holiday inspires and enchants. At places such as Patara and Olympos, your handpacked sandcastles are humbled by vine-covered ruins and Lycian tombs. If you prefer to interact with your surroundings, plunge into activities such as scuba diving at Kaş and kayaking atop the underwater city in Kekova.
The eastern Mediterranean, meanwhile, has long lived in its more fashionable western neighbour’s shadow. But the Arab-spiced area has at least as many pristine beaches as the Turquoise Coast.
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MARMARİS
0252 / pop 35,160
An unashamedly brash harbour town that swells to over 200,000 people during summer, Marmaris is heaven or hell depending which way your boat floats. It sports one of Turkey’s swankiest marinas, and a stunning natural harbour where Lord Nelson organised his fleet for the attack on the French at Abukir in 1798. Not far away, the deeply indented Reşadiye and Hisarönü Peninsulas hide bays of azure backed by pine-covered mountains and gorgeous fishing villages.
Orientation & Information
İskele Meydanı (the main square) and the tourist office ( 412 1035; İskele Meydanı 2; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri mid-Sep–May, daily Jun–mid-Sep) are by the harbour, north of the castle. The post office is on 51 Sokak. Hacı Mustafa Sokak, also called 39 Sokak or Bar St, runs inland from the bazaar; action here keeps going until the early hours.
The otogar is 3km north of town, near the turnoff to Fethiye.
Sights & Activities
The small castle (admission TL2; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Tue-Sun)