Middle East - Anthony Ham [480]
Numerous yachts along the waterfront offer day tours of Marmaris Bay, and its beaches and islands. A day’s outing usually costs between TL50 and TL80 per person, but you’ll have to negotiate.
On a day tour you’ll usually visit Paradise Island, Aquarium, Phosphoros Cave, Kumlubuku, Amos, Turunç, Green Sea and İçmeler. Two- and three-day trips often go to Dalyan and Kaunos.
Marmaris is also a popular place to scuba dive, and there are several dive centres on the waterfront.
Sleeping
Marmaris has hundreds of good-value sleeping options, especially for self-caterers. The following listings include high-season prices; off-season, expect serious discounts.
Interyouth Hostel ( 412 3687; interyouth@turk.net; 42 Sokak 45; dm or s without bathroom with/without ISIC card TL10/15, d without bathroom TL30; ) Located inside the covered bazaar, this hostel is efficiently run and a great source of travel information. Rooms, though smallish and rather spartan, are spotless and well maintained. There are bags of extras, even free pasta nights on the rooftop from June to September.
Maltepe Pansiyon ( 412 1629; 66 Sokak 9; s/d TL30/50; ) The shady garden is the main attraction of this longstanding budget choice. Rooms are small but spotless, and internet access is free.
Otel 47 ( 412 4747; www.hotel47.com; Atatürk Caddesi 10; s/d TL60/90; ) Amid the bright lights and swaying palm trees of Atatürk Caddesi, there’s a certain Miami Beach vibe going on at 47. Regulars return for the prime location and white terrace overlooking the traffic.
Royal Maris Otel ( 412 8383; www.royalmarisotel.com; Atatürk Caddesi 34; s/d TL100/150; ) It offers two pools, a private beach, a hamam, fitness centre and spacious balconies with stunning views – remarkably affordable.
Eating & Drinking
For something cheap and cheerful, try the bazaar area between the post office and the mosque, or the old town area around the castle, where there’s a host of small Turkish restaurants. On 39 Sokak (Bar St), stalls cater to ravenous late-night revellers.
Meryem Ana ( 412 7855; 35 Sokak 62; mains TL5-6) Simple and understated, this place serves terrific traditional home cooking. A firm family affair, you can see the mother and aunt hard at work in the kitchen. A large mixed vegie plate costs TL10.
Fellini ( 413 0826; Barboras Caddesi 61; meals TL20; 9am-midnight) Perennially popular with both locals and visitors in the know, this attractive waterfront restaurant does great thin-crust pizzas and pasta.
Aquarium Restaurant ( 413 1522; Barboras Caddesi; meals TL20; 9am-midnight) Run by a Turkish-Kiwi couple, this loud and proud port-side restaurant serves grills and steaks to a jovial crowd. Slightly overpriced, but it’s got the location covered.
For quick eats head to the Doyum ( 413 4977; Ulusal Egemenlik Bulvarı 17; 24hr), a good place for an early breakfast (TL5) and vegie dishes (TL4 to TL5); chicken joint Alin’s Cafe and Grill ( 413 0826; Barboras Caddesi 61; meals TL12), full of young Turkish families feasting on healthy grills and kebaps; and İdil Mantı Evi ( 413 9771; 39 Sokak 140; meze TL5-6, mains TL8-20; 4pm-4am), a great spot on Bar St for the night-nibbles.
Marmaris is a party town, so drinkers and hedonists should stagger straight to the aptly named Bar St.
Getting There & Away
The nearest airports to Marmaris are at Dalaman and Bodrum.
The otogar in Marmaris has frequent buses and minibuses to Bodrum (TL20, four hours), İzmir (TL30, 4½ hours) and Fethiye (TL14, three hours).
Catamarans to Rhodes sail daily in summer (one way/same-day return/open return €50/50/75 including port tax, 50 minutes). They do not operate from November to mid-April. Buy your ticket in any Marmaris travel agency.
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KÖYCEĞİZ
0252 / pop 7520
The star attraction here is the beautiful and serene Lake Köyceğiz Gölü. As it’s so tough to rival the Med, this farming town attracts only modest tourism, and still depends mostly on citrus fruits, olives, honey and cotton for its livelihood.