Middle East - Anthony Ham [481]
Sleeping
Most of the accommodation lies west of the mosque, and managers can organise tours on and around the lake. There are lots of cheap and cheerful restaurants off the main square.
Fulya Pension ( 262 2301; fulyapension@mynet.com; Ali İhsan Kalamaz Caddesi 100; s/d TL20/40; ) The bubbly young owner maintains Fulya as a brilliant budget option. Rooms are clean and cheap, all have balconies and there’s a large roof terrace. Bikes are available for free, and the TL15 boat trips are a bargain.
Flora Hotel ( 262 4976; www.florahotel.info; Kordon Boyu 96; s/d/apt TL20/40/60; ) The foyer is filled with flags in tribute to the foreign guests who often come for arranged walks in the nearby Gölgeli Mountains. The rooms here have only side views of the lake, however, while apartments sleep two adults and two children.
Alila Hotel ( 262 1150; Emeksiz Caddesi 13; s/d TL40/70; ) By far the most character-filled hotel in town, 12 of the Alila’s rooms also boast direct views of the water. Friendly owner Ömar attends to every detail (right down to the swan-folded towels).
Tango Pansiyon ( 262 2501; www.tangopension.com; Ali İhsan Kalmaz Caddesi 112; dm/s/d per person TL15/30/50; ) Managed by the local school sports teacher, this place is big on activities. Rooms are bright, cheerful and well maintained, and there’s a pleasant garden.
Mutlu Kardeşler ( 262 2480; Tören Alanı 52; soup TL3, köfte TL5, kebap TL6, pide TL2-3; 7am-1am) Funky in a rural kind of way, this simple place is much-loved locally and has tables on a little terrace out the back.
Colıba ( 262 2987; Cengiz Topel Caddesi 64; köfte TL6; 10am-1am) Cool-headed staff serve meze, grills and house specialty alabalık (trout) to young couples and businessmen. Whitewashed and wooden, Colıba has a shaded terrace with views of the lake front.
Next to Colıba, the pink-and-purple Pembe Restaurant ( 262 2983; Cengiz Topel Caddesi 70; meals around TL8-10) does cheap seafood and meat dishes.
Getting There & Away
There are frequent buses and dolmuşes to Fethiye (TL8, 1¾ hours), Marmaris (TL5, one hour) and Dalyan (TL4, 30 minutes).
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DALYAN
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Dalyan is a laid-back river-mouth community with a strong farming pedigree and a growing penchant for tourism. It makes an entertaining base for exploring the surrounding fertile waterways, in particular the popular turtle nesting grounds of İztuzu Beach and Lake Köyceğiz.
In summer, excursion boats go out to explore the river and the lake. You can save yourself a lot of money, and ensure your lira is spread evenly around town, by taking boats run by the local Dalyan Kooperatifi ( 284 7843), located near the turtle statue. The cooperative’s cruises cost about TL20 and take in the Sultaniye hot springs and mud baths on the shores of Lake Köyceğiz, the ruined city of Kaunos (admission TL5; 8.30am-5.30pm) and the unspoilt İztuzu beach on the Mediterranean coast.
Sleeping
Dalyan Camping ( /fax 284 4157; Maraş Caddesi 144; per tent/caravan TL15/25, 2-/3-/4-person bungalows TL20/40/60; Apr-Oct) This compact, well-shaded site is centrally located by the river. The eight pinewood bungalows are simple, clean and quite attractive.
Midas Pension ( 284 Kaunos Sokak 30; www.midasdalyan.com; Kaunos Sokak 32; s/d TL50/60; ) Selçuk and Saadet Nur are the wonderful hosts of this riverside pension raised on stilts. The 10 rooms are smartly decked out, with private bathrooms attached.
Kilim Hotel ( 284 2253; www.kilimhotel.com; Kaunos Sokak 7; s/d TL35/70; Apr-Nov; ) The active English owner Becky presides over this buzzing midrange hotel with a pool and palm-shaded seating area, and spacious rooms containing king-size beds. There’s a ramp for wheelchair access, complimentary use of bicycles, and daily