Middle East - Anthony Ham [482]
Eating & Drinking
Dalyan’s restaurant scene swings between high quality and lousy value, so be selective. For a drink, keep your ears pricked along Maraş Caddesi.
A good spot for a beer and a meal is Caretta Caretta ( 284 3039; Maraş Caddesi 124; meze TL5, mains incl fish TL10-20; 8am-1am Mar-Nov). This signature riverbank restaurant is scattered with wagons and wooden platforms; the bonfile ve tavuk cığerli börek (beef fillet with chicken livers baked in puff pastry) leads the impressive menu.
Getting There & Away
There are some direct dolmuşes to Dalyan from Köyceğiz (TL4, 30 minutes), but getting here normally involves changing at Ortaca (TL1.50). To get to Dalaman from Dalyan you must change in Ortaca and Köyceğiz. Dalyan’s minibuses leave from the stop behind the mosque.
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FETHİYE
0252 / pop 50,700
In 1958 an earthquake levelled the old harbour city of Fethiye, sparing only the ancient remains of Telmessos (400 BC) from its wrath. Fifty years on and Fethiye is once again a prosperous and proud hub of the western Mediterranean. Its natural harbour, tucked away in the southern reaches of a broad bay scattered with pretty islands, is perhaps the region’s finest.
Orientation & Information
Fethiye’s otogar is 2.5km east of the centre. Atatürk Caddesi, the main street, has banks with ATMs. Most pensions are either up the hill or west of the marina; the tourist office ( 614 1527; İskele Meydanı; 10am-noon & 1-5.30pm daily May-Sep, Mon-Sat Oct-Apr) is opposite the marina, just past the Roman theatre.
Tours
Be sure to sign up for the 12-Island Tour (per person TL25), which mixes swimming, cruising and sightseeing around Fethiye Bay. Hotels and agencies sell tickets or you can negotiate a price with the boat companies at the marina. The boats usually stop at six islands and cruise by the rest.
Sleeping
Fethiye has some good-value midrange digs, but not much at the deluxe end.
Ideal Pension ( 614 1981; www.idealpension.net; 26 Sokak 1; dm/s/d from TL20/35/40; ) For the past two decades Ideal Pension has provided high-quality, cheap beds to weary travellers. Aside from the clean (albeit small) rooms, there’s a large terrace with bay views and generous breakfasts.
Tan Pansiyon ( /fax 614 1584/1676; 30 Sokak 43; s/d TL30/50) When the backpacker grind wears thin, try this traditional Turkish pension run by a charming elderly couple. Rooms are small (the bathrooms smaller), but it’s sparkling clean and quiet.
Villa Daffodil ( 614 9595; www.villadaffodil.com; Fevzi Çakmak Caddesi 115; s/d TL50/90; ) This large Ottoman-designed guesthouse is one of the few older buildings to survive. The rooms have slanted ceilings and a homely feel; the best have sea views and ante-rooms. Hussein, a retired colonel, is a genial manager.
Eating & Drinking
One way to taste Fethiye’s fabulous fish without losing too many Turkish lira is to bring your own! Follow fishy smells to find the market, browse what’s on offer and check the day’s prices chalked up on the boards. Next, ferry the fish to one of the restaurants surrounding the market (pick the most popular) and ask them to cook it. For just €2.75, they will cook your flipper and throw in a sauce, green salad, garlic bread, fruit and coffee.
Paşa Kebab ( 614 9807; Çarşı Caddesi 42; meze TL3-4, pide TL2-6, pizza TL8-10; 9am-midnight) Considered locally to offer the best kebaps in town, this honest and unpretentious place has a well-priced menu. Try the Paşa special, an oven-baked beef, tomato and cheese concoction.
Café Oley ( 612 9532; 38 Sokak 4; breakfast €3.35-6, meals TL8-10; 8am-midnight; ) The superstar Atilla is famed for her smoothies, Vegemite and pancakes. She also does good salads and sandwiches.
Meğri Lokantasi ( 614 4047; Çarşı Caddesi 26; mains TL14-25; 8am-2am low season, to 4am high season) Packed with locals who spill onto the streets, the Meğri does excellent and hearty home-style cooking. The güveç (casseroles) are a specialty.
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BLUE VOYAGES
For many travellers a four-day, three-night cruise