Middle East - Anthony Ham [485]
The Elixir ( 843 5032; Kalamar Yolu 8; d €100-120; ) It’s always exciting to see a hotel attempt something new, especially when they pull it off. Part body-focused retreat, part designer hotel, The Elixir features two swimmingly handsome pools (one on the roof), and a smooth-edged Turkish bath.
Eating & Drinking
İstanbul Restaurant ( 844 2282; Süleyman Yılmaz Caddesi; mains TL10-20) This understated eatery’s few white-clothed tables are usually filled with knowing diners, enjoying dishes such as ali nazik (aubergine, pepper and beef puree) and ahtapot güveç (octopus casserole).
Belgin’s ( 844 3614; Hasan Altan Caddesi; mains TL12-20; 10am-midnight Apr-Oct) In a 150-year-old former olive-oil press, Belgin’s serves traditional Turkish food at tempting prices. The specialty is mantı. There’s usually live Turkish music from 8pm.
Korsan Kebap ( 844 2116; Atatürk Caddesi; meals TL20) With tables on a terrace by the harbour, it does delicious, upmarket kebaps and pide. Try the specialty, the dürüm kebap with spicy tender steak.
Aubergine ( 844 3332; İskele Sokak; meals €13; 9am-midnight) With tables right on the yacht marina, as well as cosy seats inside, the restaurant is famous for its slow-roasted wild boar, as well as its swordfish fillet served in a creamy vegetable sauce.
Daphne Restaurant ( 844 3547; Kocakaya Caddesi; mains TL15-30; May-Oct) Owned by the same crowd as the heralded Aubergine, big things were expected of the former Daphne Hotel. It certainly delivers, with an emphasis on wok-style dishes and seafood. Live music is played on most nights.
Moonlight Bar ( 844 3043; Süleyman Yılmaz Caddesi 17; beer €2; 10am-4am or later mid-Apr–Oct) Kalkan’s oldest bar is still its most ‘happening’, though 95% of people at the tables outside, or on the small dance floor, are tourists.
Getting There & Away
In high season, minibuses connect Kalkan with Fethiye (TL7, 1½ hours, 81km) and Kaş (TL2.50, 30 minutes, 29km). Around eight minibuses also run daily to Patara (TL5, 25 minutes, 15km).
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KAŞ
0242 / pop 7700
The 500m-high mountain known as ‘Sleeping Man’ (Yatan Adam) has watched Kaş evolve from a beautiful place of exile for political dissidents, to a funky boutique shopping and café strip, to a seaside adventure playground. While Kaş proper may not sport the finest beach culture in the region, it’s a yachties’ haven and the atmosphere of the town is wonderfully mellow. The surrounding areas are ideal for day trips by sea or scooter and a plethora of adventure sports are on offer, in particular, some world-class diving.
Sights & Activities
Apart from enjoying the town’s mellow atmos’ and small pebble beaches, you can walk west a few hundred metres to see the well-preserved theatre. You can also step to the Lycian rock tombs in the cliffs above the town – the walk is strenuous so go at a cool time of day. It’s also well worth going up the hill on the street to the east of the tourist office to reach the Monument Tomb, a Lycian sarcophagus mounted on a high base.
The most popular boat trip (TL25 to TL30) is to Kekova Island and Üçağız, a three-hour excursion that includes time to see several interesting ruins as well as stops for swimming. Other standard excursions go to the Mavi Mağara (Blue Cave), Patara and Kalkan, or to Liman Ağzı, Longos and several nearby islands. There are overland excursions to the wonderful 18km-long Saklıkent Gorge.
If you want to do anything active while you are in Kaş, contact Bougainville Travel ( 836 3737; www.bougainville-turkey.com; İbrahim Selin Caddesi 10). This long-established English-Turkish tour operator offers scuba diving, trekking, mountain biking and canyoning trips in the area. The sea-kayaking day trips over the Kekova sunken city (TL50), suitable for all fitness levels, will be the highlight