Middle East - Anthony Ham [486]
Sleeping
Cheap pensions are mostly west of Atatürk Bulvarı, and more-expensive hotels and restaurants to the east.
Kaş Camping ( 836 1050; Yaşar Yazici Caddesi; 2-person campsites TL20) Situated on an attractive rocky site 800m west of town, this has long been the most popular place for camping, with a lovely swimming area and bar.
Santosa Pension ( 836 1714; Recep Bilgin Caddesi 4; s/d TL20/40; ) Clean, quiet and cheap is how best to describe this backpacker hangout. The rooms are bare and simple, but excellent for the price.
Ateş Pension ( 836 1393; www.atespension.com; Amfi Tiyatro Sokak 3; s/d TL30/50; ) Well run by Ahmed and family, this is a friendly place with a pleasant roof terrace where barbecues are held. Guests also have free use of the kitchen and internet.
Hilal Pansiyon ( 836 1207; www.korsan-kas.com; Süleyman Çavuş Caddesi; dm/s/d TL15/30/50; ) The friendly Hilal has a plant-potted terrace where barbecues take place. The travel agency below it offers guests 10% discounts on activities including kayaking, diving and trips to Saklıkent.
Hideaway ( 836 1887; www.kasturkey.com; Amfi Tiyatro Sokak; s TL50, d TL70-80; ) Aptly named, the quiet Hideaway is located at the far end of town. Rooms are simple but in good order and all have a balcony. There’s a roof terrace with sea views over the water and amphitheatre.
Eating
Oba Restaurant ( 836 1687; İbrahim Serin Caddesi 26; meze TL4, moussaka TL6) With a pleasant walled terrace under orange trees, the Oba offers Turkish dishes cooked by Nuran, the owner’s mother. Hearty, tasty and great value, it’s simple Turkish home cooking at its best.
Bi Lokma ( 836 3942; Hukumet Caddesi 2; mains TL8-12; 9am-midnight) The Bi Lokma has tables meandering around a terraced garden overlooking the harbour. Sabo (Mama) turns out great traditional dishes, including famous mantı and Mama’s pastries. The wine list is also reasonably priced.
Çinarlar ( 836 2860; Mütfü Efendi Sokak 4; pide TL5-8, pizza TL8-15; 8am-1am) Perennially popular among Kaş’ young, who come for the affordable pide and pop music, it also has a pleasant courtyard tucked away off the street.
Natur-el ( 836 2834; Gürsöy Sokak 6; meals TL15-20) With its dishes cooked to old Ottoman recipes passed down from generation to generation, Natur-el provides a chance to sample Turkish cuisine at its brilliant best. If you haven’t yet tried mantı, then chose from three varieties here.
Sultan Garden Restaurant ( 836 3762; Hükümet Caddesi; mains TL15-25; 10am-midnight) This is a very pretty place complete with original Lycian tombs and a functional cistern. The vegie burger is awesome and the hünkar beğendı (spiced lamb pieces on aubergine puree) is soft and flavoursome.
Mercan ( 836 1209; Balıkçı Barınağı 2; mains TL15-30; 9am-midnight) Since 1956, when the owner’s father was working his magic, the Mercan has been satisfying customers with fish and meat creations and confident, disarming service. The swordfish kebap should win awards.
Bahçe Restaurant ( 836 2370; Likya Caddesi 31; meals TL25; dinner) Up behind the Lycian sarcophagus, it has a pretty garden and serves excellent dishes at decent prices, including a terrific range of meze. The fish in paper receives rave reviews.
Drinking
Rejoice! There are a couple of buzzing bars in Kaş. Not the kind of boisterous places you would find in Marmaris or Kuşadası, but more civilised venues heavy on atmosphere. Check out Echo Bar (Gürsöy Sokak), Mavi Bar (Mütfü Efendi Sokak) or, run by a retired New York taxi driver with a few stories to tell, Hi-Jazz Bar (Zümrüt Sokak 3). For caffeinated concoctions, make for Café Merhaba (İbrahim Serin Caddesi 19) or Hideaway Café & Bar (Cumhuriyet Caddesi 16a).
Getting There & Away
There are half-hourly dolmuşes to Kalkan (TL2.50, 30 minutes), Olympos (TL8, 2½ hours) and Patara (TL8, 45 minutes), and daily buses to İstanbul (TL65, 15 hours), Ankara (TL50, 11 hours) and İzmir (TL25, 8½ hours). For other destinations, connect at Fethiye (TL8, three hours) or Antalya (TL9, 3½ hours).
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