Middle East - Anthony Ham [487]
OLYMPOS & ÇIRALI
0242
Olympos has long had an ethereal hold over its visitors. It was an important Lycian city in the 2nd century BC, when the Olympians devoutly worshipped Hephaestus (Vulcan), the god of fire. No doubt this veneration sprang from reverence for the mysterious Chimaera, an eternal flame that still springs from the earth not far from the city. Along with the other Lycian coastal cities, Olympos went into a decline in the 1st century BC, before its fortunes twisted and turned through Roman rule, 3rd-century-AD pirate attacks and fortress building during the Middle Ages by the Venetians, Genoese and Rhodians (you can still see remains hanging from the clifftops). By the 15th century the site had been abandoned.
Neighbouring, 1km to the east, is another gem of a place. While Olympos has a well-established party reputation (though it has gentrified considerably during the last decade), Çıralı is the perfect place to experience the fine art of keyif (quiet relaxation).
The drive here is also a treat, strewn with mountain views all the way from Kaş.
Sights
Don’t miss the fascinating ruins of ancient Olympos (admission per day TL2). A skip away from the beach, it’s a wild, abandoned place where ruins peek out from forested coppices, rock outcrops and riverbanks.
If you just want to spend a lazy day, nothing beats the beach in Olympos. Çıralı also boasts a fine stretch of clear sand.
Most pensions in Olympos and Çıralı run tours (TL10) to Chimaera, a cluster of flames that blaze from crevices on the rocky slopes of Mt Olympos. It’s located about 7km from Olympos.
Sleeping & Eating
OLYMPOS
Staying in an Olympos tree house has long been the stuff of travel legend – it offers fabulous-value, community-minded accommodation in a stunning natural setting. The tree-house dream is fading in the face of modern conveniences, but all camps include breakfast and dinner in the price, although drinks are extra. Bathrooms are generally shared, but many bungalows (offered as an alternative to tree houses) have private bathrooms and some have air-con.
Not all tree houses have reliable locks, so store valuables at reception. It’s also worth being extra attentive with personal hygiene while staying here – every year some travellers get ill. The huge influx of visitors, over the summer in particular, can overwhelm the camps’ capacity for waste disposal. Be vigilant when it comes to eating and don’t swim around the point area.
Kadir’s Yörük Top Treehouse ( 892 1250; www.kadirstreehouses.com; dm/bungalow TL20/40; ) Kadir’s started the tree-living trend. For the first time in many years, the quirky place has grown smaller due to a fire damaging a large section of the property. But the fun has not gone away: there are three bars (including the time-honoured Bull Bar) and a rock-climbing wall. A range of other activities are also on offer.
Şaban ( 892 1265; www.sabanpansion.com; dm/tree house TL20/30, bungalow TL35-40; ) The sight of travellers laid out in hammocks snoozing in the shade soon confirms the local lore: that you come here to chill. Şaban is not a party place, and instead sells itself on tranquillity, space, a family feel and great home cooking. It’s a good choice for single women.
Orange Pension ( 892 1317; www.olymposorangepension.com; bungalow with/without bathroom TL40/35; ) A long-standing favourite that’s especially big with Turkish university students and Japanese guests, the Orange has grown in size in recent years, but Yusuf and friends still run a good show. The wooden en suite rooms upstairs have a futuristic Swiss Family Robinson feel, while the concrete rooms downstairs are perhaps the future of Olympos. It’s got a great communal dining area and the same guys run a nightclub hidden in the valley.
Bayram’s ( 892 1243; www.bayrams.com; tree house TL30, bungalow with/without air-con TL50/40; ) Here chilled-out 20-somethings sit on cushioned benches in post-party states. Backgammon, books and the odd swim in the sea are Bayram’s activities of choice.
Varuna ( 892 1347; mains TL10-15; 8am-2.30am) Next