Middle East - Anthony Ham [496]
Orientation & Information
The town centre stretches from Alaaddin Tepesi, the hill topped by the Alaaddin Camii mosque (1221), along Mevlâna Caddesi to the tomb of Mevlâna, now called Mevlâna Müzesi. The otogar is 14km north of the centre; free servis take half an hour for the trip into town.
The tourist office ( 353 4020; Mevlâna Caddesi 21; 8.30am-5.30pm Mon-Sat) is across the square from the Mevlâna Müzesi. You’ll find numerous banks with ATMs and internet cafés around Alaaddin Tepesi, and the PTT just south of Mevlâna Caddesi near Hükümet Meydanı.
Sights
Join the pilgrims and head straight to the wonderful Mevlâna Museum ( 351 1215; admission TL2; 9am-6.30pm Tue-Sun, 10am-6pm Mon), at the eastern end of Mevlâna Caddesi. The former lodge of the whirling dervishes, it is topped by a brilliant turquoise-tiled dome – one of the most inspiring images of Turkey. Although it’s virtually under siege from devout crowds, there’s a palpable mystique here.
It’s also well worth visiting two outstanding Seljuk buildings near Alaaddin Tepesi. Karatay Müzesi ( 351 1914; Alaaddin Meydanı; admission TL3; 9am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm), once a Muslim theological seminary, is now a museum housing a superb collection of ceramics (although it was closed for renovations when we visited). İnceminare Medresesi (Seminary of the Slender Minaret; 351 3204; Adliye Bulvarı; admission TL3; 9am-noon & 1.30-5.30pm), now the Museum of Wooden Artefacts & Stone Carving, has an extraordinarily elaborate doorway.
Sleeping
Otel Mevlâna ( 352 0029; Cengaver Sokak 2; s/d/tr from TL40/60/85) Across Mevlâna Caddesi from Otel Bera Mevlâna, this friendly central option is a good choice for backpackers of both sexes. The rooms have firm beds and fridges.
Otel Derya ( 352 0154; Ayanbey Sokak 18; s/d/tr TL50/80/100; ) Quiet and spotless, the three-year-old Derya is a good choice for families and female travellers. The rooms, although slightly bland, have TVs and minibars, and the management is friendly and efficient.
Hotel Rumi ( 353 1121; www.rumihotel.com; Durakfakih Sokak 5; s/d/tr/ste €50/75/100/125; ) Boasting a killer position near the Mevlâna Museum, the stylish Rumi has 33 rooms and suites with curvy chairs, slender lamps and mirrors. There’s a hamam in the basement.
Hotel Balıkçılar ( 350 9470; www.balikcilar.com; Mevlâna Karşısı 2; s/d/tr/ste €89/120/140/157, breakfast €12; ) Easily the best reception area in town, styled as a cobbled Ottoman street. Facilities include a large lobby bar, restaurant, sauna, hamam and occasional sema (dervish ceremony) performances.
Eating & Drinking
Gülbahçesı Konya Mutfağı ( 351 0768; Gülbahçe Sokak 3; mains TL4-8; 8am-10pm) One of Konya’s best restaurants, mostly because of its upstairs terrace with views of the Mevlâna Museum’s gardens. Dishes include yaprak sarma (stuffed grape leaves), spicy Adana kebap and etli ekmek (bread with meat); no beer is served.
Osmanlı Çarşısı ( 353 3257; İnce Minare Sokak) Looking like an apple smoke–spewing pirate ship, this early-20th-century house near Alaaddin Tepesi has terraces and seats on the street. Nargilehs are being lit or bubbling away everywhere you look.
Getting There & Away
There are three daily flights to and from İstanbul with Turkish Airlines.
From the otogar, 7km north of Alaaddin Tepesi and accessible from there by tram, there are frequent buses to all major destinations, including Ankara (TL20, four hours), İstanbul (TL45, 11½ hours), Kayseri (TL25, four hours) and Sivas (TL30, seven hours). There are lots of ticket offices in the centre.
Two express trains link Konya and İstanbul.
Return to beginning of chapter
CAPPADOCIA (KAPADOKYA)
Between Kayseri and Nevşehir, Central Anatolia’s mountain-fringed plains give way to a land of fairy chimneys and underground cities. The fairy chimneys – rock columns, pyramids, mushrooms