Middle East - Anthony Ham [497]
You could spend days touring rock-cut churches and admiring frescoes (technically seccos; one of many factoids visitors learn on a hike through the canyons). Alternatively, view the troglodyte architecture from far above on a dawn hot-air balloon ride or from a panoramic hotel terrace. Whether it’s a pension or a boutique hideaway with as few rooms as it has fairy chimneys, Cappadocia’s accommodation rates as some of Turkey’s best and allows guests to experience cave dwelling first hand.
Tours
The following Göreme-based agencies offer good daily tours (costing around TL60) of local highlights, including Ihlara Valley.
Heritage Travel ( 271 2687; www.turkishheritagetravel.com; Yavuz Sokak 31)
Neşe Tour ( 271 2525; www.nesetour.com; Avanos Yolu 54)
Nomad Travel ( 271 2767; www.nomadtravel.com. tr; Müze Caddesi 35)
Kirkit Voyage ( 511 3148; www.kirkit.com; Avanos) and Argeus Tours ( 341 4688; www.argeus.com.tr, www.cappadociaexclusive.com; Ürgüp) are experienced travel agencies with varied programs including horse-riding and cycling tours. Middle Earth Travel ( 271 2559; www.middleearthtravel.com; Göreme) offers walking tours and activities such as abseiling.
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GÖREME
0384 / pop 2250
Göreme is the archetypal travellers’ utopia: a beatific village where the surreal surroundings spread a fat smile on everyone’s face. Beneath the honeycomb cliffs, the locals live in fairy chimneys – or increasingly, run hotels in them. The wavy white valleys in the distance, with their hiking trails, panoramic viewpoints and rock-cut churches, look like giant tubs of vanilla ice cream. Rose Valley, meanwhile, lives up to its name; watching its pink rock slowly change colour at sunset is best accompanied by meze in one of the excellent eateries.
Tourism is having an impact on this destination and these days a visitor can start the day in a hot-air balloon, before touring a valley of rock-cut Byzantine churches at Göreme Open-Air Museum. Nonetheless, rural life is still apparent around Göreme, where once upon a time, if a man couldn’t lay claim to one of the rock-hewn pigeon houses, he would struggle to woo a wife.
All the services useful to travellers are in the centre, including the otogar (where there are four ATMs), the PTT and internet cafés.
Sights & Activities
Cappadocia’s top attraction is Göreme Open-Air Museum (Göreme Açık Hava Müzesi; admission TL10; 8am-5pm). It’s pricey but it’s worth every lira. Medieval frescoes can be seen in the rocky monastic settlement, where some 20 monks lived. The best-preserved churches are from the 10th to 13th centuries, although some are even older than that. The stunning Karanlık Kilise (Dark Church; admission TL8) is one of the most famous and fresco-filled of the churches, and is worth paying the extra admission fee. Across the road from the main entrance, the Tokalı Kilise (Buckle Church) is also impressive, with an underground chapel and fabulous frescoes.
There are a number of hiking options around Göreme village. It’s surrounded by a handful of gorgeous valleys that are easily explored on foot, allowing about one to three hours for each of them. The valleys are remote in places and there have been attacks in them, so walk with a companion if possible. Most pension owners will be happy to guide you on the trails for a minimal fee.
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CAPPADOCIA FROM ABOVE
If you’ve never taken a flight in a hot-air balloon, Cappadocia is one of the best places in the world to do it. Flight conditions are especially favourable here, with balloons operating most mornings from the beginning of April to the end of November. The views across the valleys and fairy chimneys are simply unforgettable – it’s a magical experience (Click here for a full account of the experience).