Middle East - Anthony Ham [506]
Next to the Çifte Minareli is the Ulu Cami (Great Mosque; Cumhuriyet Caddesi), built in 1179. Unlike the elaborately decorated Çifte Minareli, the Ulu Cami is restrained but elegant.
Further west along Cumhuriyet Caddesi is the Yakutiye Medrese, a seminary built by the local Mongol emir in 1310 and now a museum.
Sleeping
Otel Çınar ( 213 2055; Ayazpaşa Caddesi; s/d TL20/30, s without bathroom TL13) If the Yeni Çınar is full, the adjoining Çınar has diminutive singles, which will do the trick for unfussy backpackers. Rooms are daubed a gaudy shade of green and have well-scrubbed bathrooms.
Yeni Çınar Oteli ( 213 6690; Ayazpaşa Caddesi; s/d TL25/35) This place may not look like much, but has plenty of virtues for true budget-seekers. It’s clean, safe, quiet and within walking distance of everything you might need. The only flaw is the deserted, dimly lit street at night.
Yeni Ornek ( 233 0053; Kazım Karakebir Caddesi; s/d TL30/40) Style? Erm, no. The Yeni Ornek is as no-frills as it gets but the rooms are well kept and the staff pleasant. After a long day’s turf pounding, sink into the comfy leather armchairs in the lobby.
Grand Hotel Hitit ( /fax 233 5001/2350; Kazım Karabekir Caddesi; s/d TL40/70) A good lair in this price bracket, with rooms that seemingly get plenty of TLC. Convenient location and good views from the rooftop breakfast room.
Esadaş Otel ( 233 5425; www.erzurumesadas.com.tr, in Turkish; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; s/d TL45/80; ) Right on the main thoroughfare and close to everything, including our beloved Kılıçoğlu pastry shop. Terrific breakfast, with five varieties of local cheese, sausages and yogurt. Bargain down the prices a bit if business is slack.
Eating
You’ll find plenty of eateries sprinkled around Cumhuriyet Caddesi.
Kılıçoğlu ( 235 3233; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; snacks & pastries from TL2) A smart pastry shop that turns out snacks, 27 kinds of baklava and 23 ice-cream flavours.
Salon Asya ( 234 9222; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; mains TL4-8) Buzzing and packed, come here for satisfying kebaps and meals in rosy surrounds. The food is fresh and hygienically prepared.
Güzelyurt Restorant ( 234 5001; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; mains TL5-13) This iconic restaurant, in business since 1928, is so adorable because it feels so anachronistic, with shrouded windows and thick carpets. The meze are a headliner, but the menu also features mains such as ‘Bof Straganof’ (no typo), all served by old-school, bow-tied waiters.
Erzurum Evleri ( 212 8372; Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Yüzbaşı Sokak; mains TL7-12) It feels like half the paraphernalia from six centuries of the Ottoman Empire has ended up here, with an onslaught of collectibles from floor to ceiling. Surrender to the languor of the private alcoves with cushions and low tables, and treat yourself to soup, börek or tandır kebap (stew).
Getting There & Away
Turkish Airlines has daily flights to İstanbul and Ankara. Onur Air operates a daily flight to İstanbul and Sun Express has weekly flights to Antalya, Bursa, İstanbul and İzmir.
Erzurum has frequent buses to most big towns in eastern Turkey, including Doğubayazıt (TL20, 4½ hours), Trabzon (TL25, six hours) and Kars (TL15, three hours).
Erzurum has rail connections with İstanbul and Ankara via Kayseri and Sivas, and with Kars.
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KARS
0474 / pop 78,500
What a quirky city. ‘Where am I?’ is probably what you’ll find yourself wondering on arrival. With its stately, pastel-coloured stone buildings dating from the Russian occupation and its well-organised grid plan, Kars looks like a slice of Russia in northeastern Anatolia. And the mix of influences – Azeri, Turkmen, Kurdish, Turkish and Russian – adds to the feeling of surprise.
It won’t be love at first sight (especially on a rainy day), but Kars is high on personality and atmosphere. No wonder it provided the setting for Orhan Pamuk’s award-winning