Middle East - Anthony Ham [507]
Information
Most banks (and ATMs), internet cafés, hotels and restaurants are on or close to Atatürk Caddesi, the main street. The tourist office ( 212 6817; Lise Caddesi; 8am-noon & 1-5pm Mon-Fri) can help you organise a taxi to Ani, but your best bet is to contact Celil Ersoğlu ( 212 6543, 0532-226 3966; celilani@hotmail.com), who acts as a private guide and speaks good English.
The Azerbaijani consulate ( 223 6475, 223 1361; fax 223 8741; Erzurum Caddesi; 9.30am-12.30pm Mon-Fri) is northwest of the centre.
Sights & Activities
The most prominent point of interest is the Kars Castle (admission free; 8am-5pm), which has smashing views over the town and the steppe. However, most people come to Kars to visit the dramatic ruins of Ani (admission TL5; 8.30am-5pm), 45km east of town. Set amid spectacular scenery, the site exudes an eerie ambience. Ani was completely deserted in 1239 after a Mongol invasion, but before that it was a stately Armenian capital, rivalling Constantinople in power and glory. Fronted by a hefty wall, the ghost city now lies in fields overlooking the Arpaçay River, which forms the border with Armenia. The ruins include several notable churches and a cathedral built between AD 987 and 1010.
You can ski in winter at the low-key resort town of Sarıkamış, outside of Kars.
Sleeping
Kent Otel ( 223 1929; Hapan Mevkii; s/d TL15/30) The beds are lumpy, decor is plain, the facilities are a little outdated and the shared bathrooms have seen their fair share of bodies and odours. But it’s well taken care of and secure, and the great central location and economical rates keep it popular with thrifty backpackers.
Güngören Hotel ( 212 5630; fax 223 4821; Millet Sokak; s/d TL30/50; ) This fine pile has attentive staff, good-sized rooms with modern furniture and a handy location. Perks include a satisfying breakfast, a restaurant and a men-only hamam. It’s popular with savings-minded European groups, and is a good choice for solo women travellers.
Hotel Temel ( 223 1376; fax 223 1323; Yenipazar Caddesi; s/d TL30/45) Unlike the Güngören, the Temel offers a lift, as well as neat rooms with immaculate sheets and a soothing blue-and-yellow colour scheme. The management gets mixed reviews.
Kar’s Otel ( 212 1616; www.karsotel.com; Halit Paşa Caddesi; s/d TL190/260; ) Seeking a luxurious cocoon with homely qualities, efficient hosts and a big dollop of atmosphere? Look no further than this savvy boutique hotel, housed in an old Russian mansion. It breathes an air of repose, though some might find the white colour scheme a bit too clinical, and its Ani Restaurant (mains TL6 to TL15) is also recommended. Well worth the splurge.
Eating
Kars is noted for its excellent honey. It’s on sale in several shops, which also sell the local kaşar peyniri (mild yellow cheese) and kuruyemiş (dried fruits) – perfect ingredients for a picnic on the steppe.
Antep Lahmacun Salonu ( 223 0741; Atatürk Caddesi; mains TL2-4) Pide and lahmacun aficionados head straight to this humble joint to gobble a flavoursome local-style pizza at paupers’ prices.
Ocakbaşı Restoran ( 212 0056; Atatürk Caddesi; mains TL5-8) This well-established restaurant is the pinnacle of Kars’ eating scene. Sample its signature dishes, ali nazık (eggplant puree with yogurt and meat) and Anteplim pide (sesame bread stuffed with meat, cheese, parsley, nuts and eggs), and you’ll understand why. It has two rooms, including a mock troglodytic one (wow!), but it’s not licensed (boo!).
Getting There & Away
There are frequent minibuses to Erzurum (TL15, three hours) and one morning bus to Van (TL30, six hours). If you’re heading to Doğubayazıt, you’ll have to change in Iğdır.
For Ani take the taxi dolmuşes organised by Kars tourist office, or private guide Celil Ersoğlu (see opposite). It costs about TL30 per person in a taxi, provided there’s a minimum of six people. If not, the full fare is TL100 return plus waiting time. You can hire a taxi from TL70, but ensure the driver understands you want a few hours at the site.
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