Middle East - Anthony Ham [510]
Büyük Asur Oteli ( 216 8792; asur_asur2008@hotmail.com; Cumhuriyet Caddesi, Turizm Sokak; s/d TL45/75; ) Even if you’re on a tight budget, consider spending a little more to enjoy the comforts of this reliable midrange venture. The rooms come complete with fresh linen, back-friendly beds, TV and well-scrubbed bathrooms. It has an ultra-central location, a vast lobby where you can unwind over a beer, and can organise tours to Akdamar Island and Hoşap Castle.
Otel Akdamar ( 214 9923; www.otelakdamar.com; Kazım Karabekir Caddesi; s/d TL60/90; ) The Akdamar has long been a key player on Van’s accommodation scene. The location is excellent, the hotel is well organised and amenities are solid, but it needs to move with the times if it’s not to be left resting on former glories.
Eating & Drinking
Safa 3, Çorba 1 Paça Salonu ( 215 8121; Kazım Karabekir Caddesi; soups TL2; 24hr) Gastronomic adventurers, head to this quirky little restaurant. Regulars swear by the kelle (mutton’s head); we’re happy for them to be the judge! The spicy lentil soup takes you into more traditional culinary territory.
Ayça Pastaneleri ( 216 0081; Kazım Karabekir Caddesi; snacks TL2-4) With its see-and-be-seen glass front and modern furnishings, this place lures in students in search of a pleasant spot to flirt and relax over toothsome baklavas and decent snacks.
Akdeniz Tantuni ( 216 9010; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; sandwiches TL3) Make a beeline for this delightful little den on the main drag, which prepares devilish chicken sandwiches at low prices.
Halil İbrahim Sofrası ( 210 0070; Cumhuriyet Caddesi; mains TL6-12) One word describes this downtown hotspot: yum. The eclectic food is well presented and of high quality, with service and sleek surrounds to match. Ahh, the İskender kebap: so rich, so tender.
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YUMMY BREAKFASTS
Van is famed for its tasty kahvaltı (breakfast), best tried on pedestrianised Eski Sümerbank Sokak, also called ‘Kahvaltı Sokak’ (Breakfast St). Here, a row of eateries offers complete Turkish breakfasts (around TL8), including the buzzing Sütçü Fevzi ( 216 6618; Eski Sümerbank Sokak; 7am-noon) and Sütçü Kenan ( 216 8499; Eski Sümerbank Sokak; 7am-noon). Sample otlu peynir (cheese mixed with a tangy herb, Van’s specialty), beyaz peynir (a mild yellow cheese), honey from the highlands, olives, kayma (clotted cream), butter, tomatoes, cucumbers and sucuklu yumurta (omelette with sausage).
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Barabar Türk Evi ( 214 9866; Sanat Sokak) The closest thing Van has to a pub, the Barabar is a rare breed in eastern Turkey. There is a fever-pitch energy with its mainly student crowd of both sexes gulping down pints of frothy draught beer.
Getting There & Away
There are daily flights to/from Ankara and İstanbul with Turkish Airlines and Pegasus Airlines. Sun Express operates weekly flights to/from İzmir and Antalya.
There are also regular daily bus services to Diyarbakır (TL30, seven hours) and morning minibuses to Doğubayazıt (TL10, three hours) via Çaldıran. For services to Iran, Click here.
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DİYARBAKIR
0412 / pop 665,400
Tension, violence? What tension, what violence? Since the 1980s, this animated city has been the centre of the Kurdish resistance movement and violent street demonstrations still occur from time to time. But oh, how things are changing. Filled with soul, heart and character, Diyar has recently begun to tap into its tourism potential. Behind its basalt walls, the old city is crammed full of historical buildings and Arab-style mosques. Stroll along the narrow, twisting alleyways and soak up the ancient ambience.
Banned until a few years ago, the Nevruz Festival (21 March) is a great occasion to immerse yourself in Kurdish culture.
Orientation & Information
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