Middle East - Anthony Ham [511]
Sights
Diyarbakır’s single most conspicuous feature is the old city’s 6km circuit of walls, probably dating from Roman times. They make a striking sight whether you’re walking along the top or the bottom.
Of Diyarbakır’s many mosques, the most impressive is the Ulu Cami (Gazi Caddesi), built in 1091 by an early Seljuk sultan. The Nebi Camii (Gazi Caddesi), at the main intersection of Gazi and İzzet Paşa/İnönü Caddesis, has a quirky detached minaret sporting a stunning combination of black-and-white stone.
Sleeping
Aslan Palas ( 228 9224; fax 223 9880; Kıbrıs Caddesi; s/d TL20/30; ) A worthwhile backup for cash-strapped (male) travellers. Prices don’t include breakfast but you’ll find several kahvaltı salonu (breakfast eateries) nearby.
Hotel Surkent ( 228 1014; İzzet Paşa Caddesi; s/d TL30/45; ) Tangerine frames and aluminium plates on the facade, flamingo-pink walls, technicolour bed linen and flashy orange curtains: the owners of the Surkent certainly like your life to be colourful. The top-floor rooms boast good views, it’s in a peaceful street and close to everything. One downside: there’s no lift.
Hotel Birkent ( /fax 228 7131/7145; İnönü Caddesi; s/d TL40/60; ) We saw some female travellers at this mostly hassle-free venture, which is a good sign. Expect neat bathrooms, spotless rooms, turquoise bedspreads, a convenient location and copious breakfast.
Otel Büyük Kervansaray ( /fax 228 7131/7145; Gazi Caddesi; s/d/ste TL80/120/250; ) This is your chance to sleep in the 16th-century Deliller Han; a converted caravanserai. It’s not the height of luxury, but it scores high on amenities, with a restaurant, a bar, a hamam and a nifty pool.
Eating & Drinking
A stroll along Kıbrıs Caddesi reveals plenty of informal places to eat and tantalising pastry shops.
Şafak Kahvaltı & Yemek Salonu (Kıbrıs Caddesi; mains TL5-8) Nosh on freshly prepared meat dishes and expertly cooked pide in this brisk Diyarbakır institution. It’s also a good place for a restorative morning kahvaltı (breakfast).
Otel Büyük Kervansaray ( 228 7131; Gazi Caddesi; mains TL5-10) Even if you’re not staying in this historic hotel it’s worth popping in for a meal in the restaurant, a converted camel stable. There’s live music here most nights and it’s licensed.
Selim Amca’nın Sofra Salonu ( 224 4447; Ali Emiri Caddesi; mains TL6-12, set menu TL19) This bright eatery outside the city walls is famous for its kaburga dolması (lamb or chicken stuffed with rice and almonds). Round it off with a devilish İrmik helvası (a gooey dessert).
Şeyhmus Tatlıcısı (Kıbrıs Caddesi; 7am-8pm) Keep up your strength with a delectable baklava or a sticky kadayıf.
Getting There & Away
Diyarbakır is connected with İstanbul and Ankara by daily Turkish Airlines, Onur Air, Sun Express and Pegasus Airlines flights. Pegasus has weekly flights to/from İzmir and Sun Express has weekly flights to/from Antalya, Bursa and İzmir.
Several buses a day link Diyarbakır with Şanlıurfa (TL15, three hours) and Van (TL25, seven hours), among others. For Mardin (TL7, 1¼ hours), take a minibus from the minibus terminal (İlçe Garajı), 1.5km southwest of the city.
To get to Iraq, take a bus to Cizre (TL17, four hours) or Silopi (TL20, five hours) from the main otogar. There are about four services per day. Click here for more details.
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MARDİN
0482 / pop 55,000
What a beauty! Pretty as a picture, Mardin is a highly addictive, unmissable spot with a fabulous setting, a breathtaking layout and a wealth of architectural treasures. With its minarets poking out of a labyrinth of brown lanes, its castle dominating the old city and the honey-coloured stone houses that trip down the hillside, it emerges like a phoenix from the roasted