Middle East - Anthony Ham [536]
Tipping
Tipping is expected to varying degrees in all Middle Eastern countries. Called baksheesh, it’s more than just a reward for having rendered a service. Salaries and wages are much lower than in Western countries, so baksheesh is regarded as an often essential means of supplementing income. To a cleaner in a one- or two-star hotel who may earn the equivalent of US$50 per month, the accumulated daily dollar tips given by guests can constitute the mainstay of his or her salary.
For Western travellers who aren’t used to continual tipping, demands for baksheesh for doing anything from opening doors to pointing out the obvious in museums can be quite irritating. But it is the accepted way. Don’t be intimidated into paying baksheesh when you don’t think the service warrants it, but remember that more things warrant baksheesh here than anywhere in the West. One hint: carry lots of small change with you, but keep it separate from bigger bills, so that baksheesh demands don’t increase when they see that you can afford more.
Tipping of around 10% to 15% is increasingly expected in midrange and top-end restaurants in Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Lebanon, Turkey and, to a lesser extent, Syria. Check your bill closely, however, as many such restaurants include an additional charge for service, in which case a further tip is not necessary. One country where baksheesh or tipping isn’t as prevalent is Jordan, where many locals feel irritated when tourists throw their money around, not least because some employers are known to deduct anticipated tips from their employees, resulting in even lower wages!
Other circumstances in which a tip is expected is where you’ve taken a tour either with a guide or a taxi driver or both. How much to leave depends on the length of the expedition and the helpfulness of the guide.
Travellers Cheques
Does anyone out there still use travellers cheques? If you’re among their dwindling ranks, perhaps you should reconsider. Yes, they’re secure and replaceable, but so too are most credit and other bank cards. The main reason for not using travellers cheques is that only a limited number of banks will change them, they’ll always charge a commission for doing so and it always means you’ll spend longer in the bank.
If you do take travellers cheques, carry a mix of high- and low-denomination notes, as well as cheques, so that if you’re about to leave a country, you can change just enough for a few days and not end up with too much local currency to get rid of.
PHOTOGRAPHY & VIDEO
Equipment
Memory cards are widely available in most countries of the Middle East, although you’ll have a wider choice of brands in major cities. Expect prices to be broadly similar to what you’d pay back home. The situation for batteries is also similar, although for more professional cameras, you’d be better off bringing your own supply. When it comes to burning photos onto CDs, most internet cafés will do so without batting an eyelid.
Cameras and lenses collect dust quickly in desert areas. Lens paper and cleaners can be difficult to find in some countries, so bring your own. A dust brush is also useful.
Photographing People
As a matter of courtesy, don’t photograph people without asking their permission first. While that’s a general rule for photography anywhere, it’s especially important in the Middle East. Children will almost always say yes, but adults may say no. In more conservative areas, including many rural areas, men should never photograph women and in most circumstances should never even ask. In countries where you can photograph