Middle East - Anthony Ham [537]
Restrictions
In most Middle Eastern countries, it is forbidden to photograph anything even vaguely military in nature (bridges, train stations, airports, border crossings and other public works). The definition of what is ‘strategic’ differs from one country to the next, and signs are not always posted, so err on the side of caution and, if in doubt, ask your friendly neighbouring police officer for permission.
Photography is usually allowed inside religious and archaeological sites, unless there are signs indicating otherwise. As a rule, do not photograph inside mosques during a service. Many Middle Easterners are sensitive about the negative aspects of their country, so exercise discretion when taking photos in poorer areas.
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SHOPPING FOR That Special Something
For the connoisseur of kitsch, the Middle East is an absolute dream. How about one of the following?
Blinking Jesus Kitsch is king at many Christian sites in Israel, but it’s perhaps best represented by the 3D postcards portraying a very Nordic-looking Jesus whose eyes open and close, depending on the angle of view.
Ephesus clock A plastic version of a Roman gate with arch stones for nine o’clock through to three o’clock. However, the time between three and nine o’clock (in the open portal) is anybody’s guess.
Inflatable Arafat Just put your lips to the back of his head and blow for a life-size, pear-shaped, air-filled bust of everybody’s favourite keffiyeh-wearing world leader. Gathering dust on shelves in Gaza City.
King Tut galabiyya Perfect for lounging around the house, a short-sleeved, brightly coloured robe that is usually too short and festooned with a giant iron-on reproduction of the famous funerary mask.
King Tut hologram lamp White-plaster bust of the famous boy-king that appears to float like a hologram when plugged in. Available in Cairo’s Khan al-Khalili (Click here) for a mere US$50.
Mother-of-pearl telephone A real telephone, but in a wooden casing with inlaid mother-of-pearl (actually plastic) patterning. Not only is it hideous but also it’s about the shape and size of a typewriter. Available in the Souq al-Hamidiyya, Damascus (Click here).
Priapus from Ephesus A small replica of the (in)famous, generously endowed statue on display at the museum here. Attach to the wall for a splendid coat hook.
Pyramid paperweight A clear-resin pyramid with a golden sphinx inside. When you shake it, golden ‘snow’ rains down. Or maybe it’s acid rain. Available in Egypt anywhere tourists congregate.
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Smoking
Being a nonsmoker is a relative term in the Middle East because you’ll inhale more than your fair share of passive smoke in most of the countries in the region. While much of that smoke will be of the less-offensive scented variety emanating from nargilehs, you’ll encounter plenty of cigarette smoke in most restaurants, cafés and even public transport across the region.
There are two notable exceptions to the general rule. Smoking is banned in Israel in all enclosed public places and places serving food must have nonsmoking sections, while a law banning smoking in bars, cafés and restaurants came into effect in Turkey on 1 September 2008. Although the Turkish law was far from universally welcomed, the law applies only to cigarettes, hence exempting nargilehs or sheeshas.
Otherwise, it’s a pretty smoky picture in all the other countries. The American University of Beirut has declared itself a smoke-free campus, but that’s about the only sliver of good news we can report for anti-smoking campaigners.
SOLO TRAVELLERS
You’re watching the sun rise from high on Mt Sinai, or setting over the ruins of Palmyra. Do you wish there was someone alongside to share it with, or do you try to find a quiet spot to enjoy the view in peace and solitude?