Middle East - Anthony Ham [552]
There are bicycle-repair shops in most major towns and the locals are excellent ‘bush mechanics’, with all but the most modern or sophisticated equipment.
The following additional tips may help:
Carry a couple of extra chain links, a chain breaker, spokes, a spoke key, two inner tubes, tyre levers and a repair kit, a flat-head and Phillips-head screwdriver, and Allen keys and spanners to fit all the bolts on your bike.
Check the bolts daily and carry spares.
Fit as many water bottles to your bike as you can – it gets hot.
Make sure the bike’s gearing will get you over the hills.
Confine your panniers to a maximum weight of 15kg.
Carrying the following equipment in your panniers is recommended: a two-person tent (weighing about 1.8kg) that can also accommodate the bike where security is a concern; a sleeping bag rated to 0°C and an inflatable mattress; a small camping stove; cooking pot; utensils; a water filter (two microns) and a compact torch.
Wear cycling shorts with a chamois bum and cleated cycling shoes.
Don’t worry about filling the panniers with food, as there will be plentiful and fresh supplies along the route.
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CYCLING CONTACTS
If you’re considering cycling in the Middle East, but have a few pressing questions that first need answering, you can post your query on the Thorn Tree on Lonely Planet’s website (www.lonelyplanet.com) under the Activities branch. There’s a strong likelihood somebody will respond with the information you’re looking for.
Alternatively, you could contact the Cyclists’ Touring Club (CTC; 0844 736 8450; www.ctc.org.uk), a UK-based organisation that offers good tips and information sheets on cycling in different parts of the world; the website itself is quite useful.
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BOAT
Boat services between Middle Eastern countries definitely play second fiddle to air and land transport, with a notable exception: getting between Jordan and Egypt.
The most popular services are the two ferry services between Nuweiba in Egypt and Aqaba in Jordan. The fast-ferry service takes one hour, while the slow (and cheaper) ferry makes the journey in 2½ to three hours. The only other option may be a catamaran trip between Aqaba and Sharm el-Sheikh, but this wasn’t operating at the time of research. Vehicles can usually be shipped on these routes, but advance arrangements may have to be made. For more information on these ferry services, Click here and Click here.
Practicality is the essence of Middle East ferry services, not luxury. Even in 1st class, you’re not in for a pleasure cruise, while deck class often means just that. While food and drink of some sort may be available on board, many passengers prefer to take their own.
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BUS
Buses are the workhorses of the Middle East, and in most places they’re probably you’re only option for getting from A to B. Thankfully, most buses are reliable and comfortable.
The cost and comfort of bus travel vary enormously throughout the region. One typical nuisance is bus drivers’ fondness (presumably shared by local passengers) for loud videos; sleep is almost always impossible. Another potential source of discomfort is that in most Middle Eastern countries, the concept of a ‘nonsmoking bus’ is that this is something that other regions have, although that is changing.
Most Middle Eastern countries can be reached by taking a direct international bus from other parts of the region. For example, Damascus has several daily bus services to İstanbul (30 hours), Ankara (14 hours), Beirut (four hours) and Amman (seven hours), while Aleppo also has daily services to İstanbul (22 hours), Ankara (10 hours) and Beirut (six to seven hours). From Amman, it’s also possible to travel to the King Hussein/Allenby Bridge (for Israel and the Palestinian Territories; 45 minutes), Cairo (a daily bus-ferry combination; 16 hours) or even Baghdad (14 hours), although the latter journey is chronically unreliable and probably unsafe. There