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Middle East - Anthony Ham [553]

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are also services from Cairo to Jerusalem and from Cairo to Tel Aviv via Sinai (at least 10 hours).

For further details of these services, see the Getting There & Away sections of the relevant city sections and the Transport sections of the individual country chapters.

Even in those countries without any international bus services, it’s usually possible to get to at least one neighbouring country by using domestic services, making your own way across the border and picking up another domestic service or taxi in the next country. This method is usually cheaper and it avoids one of the big problems of international services: waiting for the vehicle to clear customs at each border, which can mean delays of several hours. However, if you’re planning on using domestic buses, make sure that there will be onward transport on the other side of the border.

Reservations

It’s always advisable to book bus seats in advance at the bus station, which is usually the only ticket outlet and source of reliable information about current services. Reservations are a must over the Muslim weekend (Friday) as well as during public holidays (Click here).


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CAR & MOTORCYCLE

Bringing your own car to the Middle East will give you a lot more freedom, but it’s certainly not for everyone. For information on the paperwork required, Click here.

Throughout the Middle East, motorcycles are fairly popular as a means of racing around in urban areas, but are little used as long-distance transport. If you do decide to ride a motorcycle through the region, try to take one of the more popular Japanese models if you want to stand any chance of finding spare parts. Even then, make sure your bike is in very good shape before setting out. Motorcycles can be shipped or, often, loaded as luggage on to trains.

Driving Licence

If you plan to drive, get an IDP from your local automobile association. An IDP is compulsory for foreign drivers and motorcyclists in Egypt, Iran, Iraq and Syria. Most foreign (or national) licences are acceptable in Israel and the Palestinian Territories, Lebanon and Turkey, and for foreign-registered vehicles in Jordan. However, even in these places an IDP is recommended. IDPs are valid for one year only.

Fuel & Spare Parts

Mechanical failure can be a problem as spare parts – or at least official ones – are often unobtainable. Fear not, ingenuity often compensates for factory parts; your mechanic back home will either have a heart attack or learn new techniques when you show them what’s gone on under your hood in the Middle East.

Generally, Land Rovers, Volkswagens, Range Rovers, Mercedes and Chevrolets are the cars for which spare parts are most likely to be available, although in recent years Japan has been a particularly vigorous exporter of vehicles to the region. In Syria, spare parts for US vehicles may be very hard to find. One tip is to ask your vehicle manufacturer for a list of any authorised service centres it has in the countries you plan to visit. The length of this list is likely to be a pretty good reflection of how easy it is to get parts on your travels.

Usually two grades of petrol are available; if in doubt get the more expensive one. Petrol stations are few and far between on many desert roads. Away from the main towns, it’s advisable to fill up whenever you get the chance. Locally produced maps often indicate the locations of petrol stations. Diesel isn’t readily available in every Middle Eastern country, nor is unleaded petrol.

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THE PROS & CONS OF BRINGING YOUR OWN VEHICLE

Pros

You aren’t tied to schedules.

You can choose your own company, set your own pace, take the scenic route, declare your vehicle a smoking or nonsmoking zone, and you won’t be at the mercy of taxi drivers or have to fight for a place on a bus.

You can avoid all the hassles that go with carrying your world on your back.

Fuel is generally much cheaper than at home, although times are changing in this regard.

Cons

For all the positives, it’s difficult to imagine a route through the

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