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By Root 1887 0

the former Montrachet space into a spare, elegant dining room. It’s the perfect stage for young whiz-kid chef Paul Liebrandt’s understated, mildly experimental cuisine. The walls are decorated with subtle white trompe-l’oeil designs of cherry blossoms and birds, but the real adornment is on the plate, where Liebrandt transports diners with dishes like his “from the garden” composition: an assemblage of nearly 20 vegetable components that redefines what produce can do. Heirloom eggs are presented at the table in a basket, then spirited back to the kitchen for a slow poach before being served with trumpet mushrooms and serrano gelee. Desserts include chocolate tart with grapefruit and hazelnuts. The well-curated wine list has a cost-conscious selection of “country French” bottles. | 239 W. Broadway, between Walker and White Sts., TriBeCa | 10013 | 212/219–2777 | www.cortonnyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch | Subway: 1 to Franklin St., A, C, E to Canal St.

The Harrison.

$$$ | AMERICAN | Jimmy Bradley’s back in the kitchen at this perfect neighborhood eatery, riffing off the formula he mastered at the Red Cat in Chelsea. The warm, woody room serves as a relaxed backdrop for the seasonal American food, like English-cut lamb loin with baby carrots and fennel, and malt-vinegar mayo. Desserts, including an ice cream–brownie sandwich with Sazerac caramel, are at once accessible and sophisticated. | 355 Greenwich St., at Harrison St., TriBeCa | 10013-2880 | 212/274–9310 | www.theharrison.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 1 to Franklin St.

Kitchenette.

$ | AMERICAN | This small, comfy restaurant lives up to its name with tables so close together, you’re likely to make new friends. The dining room feels like a breakfast nook, and the food tastes like your mom made it—provided she’s a great cook. There are no frills, just solid cooking, friendly service, and a long line at peak times. For brunch don’t miss the blackberry-cherry pancakes or the baked vanilla brûlée French toast. Lemon-Parmesan chicken with seasonal vegetables is a heavenly dinner. | 156 Chambers St., near Greenwich St., TriBeCa | 10007-1267 | 212/267–6740 | www.kitchenetterestaurant.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3, A, C to Chambers St.

Locanda Verdi.

$$ | ITALIAN | The second time’s the charm for Robert De Niro, who along with his partners closed Ago, their first attempt at a restaurant in the clubby Greenwich Hotel. Chef Andrew Carmellini, an acolyte of Daniel Boulud, made a smart move from A Voce to cook here, and he’s clearly in his element. The space is warm and welcoming, with accents of brick and wood and large windows that open to the street, weather permitting. The menu is full of aspirational comfort food that hits the mark, especially the cicchetti (small plates) such as blue crab crostino with jalapeños and a mound of sheep’s-milk ricotta scattered with sea salt and herbs. Several draft beers, along with more than a dozen wines by the glass, make an already hopping bar scene even more of a draw. | 379 Greenwich St., at N. Moore St., TriBeCa | 10013 | 212/925–3797 | www.locandaverdenyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1 to Franklin St.

Marc Forgione.

$$$ | NEW AMERICAN | Young chef Marc Forgione had big shoes to fill—his father, also named Marc Forgione, was one of the New York food scene megastars with his 1980s restaurant, An American Place. Dad needn’t worry. Forgione has an Iron Chef America winner’s jacket and numerous awards to endorse his ambitious, creative New American cuisine. The menu changes with the whims of the chef and the seasonal availability of produce, but whatever you order will be bold, flavorful, and inventive without a hint of preciousness. The bar scene hops with a sceney blend of neighborhood locals and Wall Street boys loosening their ties after work, and almost every table feels like a cozy corner regardless of the right angles surrounding it. Though meats—a well-charred Creekstone Farms steak, for one—are well prepared, Forgione