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New York City (Fodor's, 2012) - Fodor's [187]

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has a special way with seafood. His chili lobster, a take on a dish you’ll find all over Asia, comes with Texas toast for mopping up the spicy, buttery sauce. Tartare (it could be kingfish, hamachi, or salmon, depending on the day) is accented with avocado in a pool of sweet, soy-lashed sauce, all accompanied by house-made chips. And his famous Maine scallop is topped with “sauce proposal,” so called because a customer proposed to Forgione after trying it. | 134 Reade St., between Hudson and Greenwich Sts., TriBeCa | 10013 | 212/941–9401 | www.marcforgione.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 1, 2, 3 to Chambers St.

Nobu.

$$$ | JAPANESE | At this huge, bustling TriBeCa dining room (or its sister location uptown), you might just spot a celeb or two. New York’s most famous Japanese restaurant has gained a lot of competition in recent years, but this is still the destination for the innovative Japanese cuisine Nobu Matsuhisa made famous (even if the chef himself is rarely in attendance these days). Dishes like fresh yellowtail sashimi with jalapeño, rock shrimp tempura, or miso-marinated Chilean sea bass continue to draw huge crowds. Put yourself in the hands of the chef by ordering the tasting menu, the omakase, specify how much you want to spend, and let the kitchen do the rest. Can’t get reservations? Try your luck at the first-come, first-served Nobu Next Door (literally next door), with a similar menu plus a sushi bar. | 105 Hudson St., at Franklin St., TriBeCa | 10013-2331 | 212/219–0500 | www.myriadrestaurantgroup.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch weekends | Subway: 1 to Franklin St.

Odeon.

$$$ | BISTRO | New Yorkers change hangouts faster than they can press speed-dial, but this spot has managed to maintain its quality and flair for more than 25 years. The neo–Art Deco room is still packed nightly with revelers. Now children are also welcome. The pleasant service and well-chosen wine list are always in style. The bistro-menu highlights include frisée aux lardons (bacon-enhanced frisee salad) with poached farm egg, grilled NY strip steak, and slow-cooked cod with baby leeks and fennel confit. | 145 West Broadway, between Duane and Thomas Sts., TriBeCa | 10013-3373 | 212/233–0507 | www.theodeonrestaurant.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3, A, C to Chambers St.

SOHO

Longtime New Yorkers lament that SoHo has evolved from a red-hot art district into a big-brand outdoor mall. Shoppers engulf the neighborhood on weekends like angry bees, turning Lafayette Street into a buzzing hive of commerce. As a result, popular spots can be tough to get into during prime times.

Aquagrill.

$$$ | SEAFOOD | Owned by a husband-and-wife team, Aquagrill is a popular SoHo standard. The decor’s a bit tired, but there’s lots of room and warm, welcoming service. The lively neighborhood eatery makes its own pastries and baked goods—including the bread for its brunchtime challah French toast with cinnamon apples and pecan butter. Fans rave about the lunchtime $21.50 prix-fixe Shucker Special—a half-dozen oysters with homemade soup or chowder and a salad. Dinner specialties include roasted Dungeness crab cake napoleon with sun-dried tomato oil, and falafel-crusted salmon. Try the the chocolate tasting plate consisting of a dark molten chocolate cake with milk-chocolate ice cream and white-chocolate mousse. | 210 Spring St., at 6th Ave., SoHo | 10012-3601 | 212/274–0505 | www.aquagrill.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: C, E to Spring St.

Balthazar.

$$ | BRASSERIE | Even with long waits and excruciating noise levels, most out-of-towners agree that it’s worth making reservations to experience restaurateur Keith McNally’s flagship, a painstakingly accurate reproduction of a Parisian brasserie. Like the decor, entrées re-create French classics: Gruyère-topped onion soup; steak frites; and icy tiers of crab, oysters, and other pristine shellfish. Brunch is still one of the toughest tables in town. The best strategy is to go at off-hours, or on weekdays for breakfast,

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